March 19 – Idyllwild to Mile 197

The day started off with a fantastic breakfast at Mile High. Nam served us and shared some of her aspirations for walking the PCT. Betsy loved her eggs with portabella mushrooms and avocado. I loved the homemade corned beef hash. 

After breakfast Betsy drove me to my drop off on the road up Black Mountain. I was sorry to see her go, but we had a nice time in Idyllwild. 

Six miles up the road it connects to the PCT, then it's all downhill for at least fifteen miles. The trail drops 6000 feet to the desert floor. There is snow at the top requiring microspikes just to be safe. 

What's worse is that there is no water available on the route. I'll be a bit thirsty when I get to Snow Park campground sometime tomorrow morning. I plan on getting an early start to hike in the cool morning breeze. 

Just before heading downhill I heard from Chad that he was on his way up the same road. Hopefully he'll catch up tonight or tomorrow. 

March 17 and 18- Zero Days in Idyllwild

Thursday started slowly after listening most of the night to a film crew doing their thing until after 3am just outside the State Park boundary. Bright lights and "Cut!" were the order of the night. A call to Ranger Bill and a quick trip to the parks office confirmed my decision to take the Black Mountain alternate to the desert. Up to 3 feet of snow still covers portions of the trail leading to Fuller Ridge. Fellow hikers Paul and Laura walked up that way to the tram and said they saw no footprints leading towards the ridge. A little later in town I met an AT hiker out here to do the PCT and he said he was going to do Fuller Ridge despite the snow. Best of luck to him. 

A walk through town led to a bakery, yum!, then Nomad Outdoor and a new set of trekking poles. While there I learned of the fire closure between Ziggy and the Bear's and Big Bear which will necessitate a bus ride to get around. Bummer. 

Next was the post office and library. After updating my blog on the library computers I started up to the Fern Valley Inn where I was to meet Betsy. Before I left town center a car pulled up driven by Diane, owner of Gastronomics, a local restaurant, with two section hikers. While Diane dropped off chairs at the restaurant we talked about trail conditions. When Diane  came back she gave me a ride to the inn. No sooner had I checked in when Betsy drove up! What a surprise and great timing. A quick kiss, then we dropped our stuff in the room, and were off to get a burger at the Lumber Mill. 

The rest of the night was spent relaxing at the inn with wine and beer and quiet talk in front of a fire. 

Betsy brought me everything I want when I return from a hike: my sister Paula's cookies, beer, cheese and crackers, IKEA cookies, scotch, and most importantly, a hug!

Friday March 18

The Mile High Cafe next to the school offers a fantastic breakfast with bacon, sausage, French toast, pancake, two eggs, hash browns, and fruit for $6.50. Nam, the owner, was very kind and promised to send me back onto the trail with her special jam if we came back on Saturday. 

Betsy and I spent the rest of the day exploring the Idyllwild area, shopping, and picking up a few geocaches. My favorite was the Evil Knievel upturned motorcycle lodged in logs piled alongside the twisty mountain road. 

March 12 - No Holding Jonas Back!

As we left Mike Herrera's Trail Angel Sanctuary we knew it was ten miles to water. Cool temperatures made it easy to cover the distance without getting thirsty, but hard to keep the muscles moving. Jonas wanted to make another 18 miles, but I just wasn't up for it after the workout and freezing rain yesterday. At Tule Springs we agreed that he should continue at a faster pace to make his schedule. We were sorry to part company, but we'll stay in touch. 

Jonas at our last rest stop together. He would go on another 8 miles. Me just 3.25. 

I camped in Nance Canyon just beyond this sign.

March 15 - Detour

Twelve miles up, and I do mean up, from highway 74 the PCT is closed due to a previous fire. The detour takes one down down down to highway 74 about ten miles past the Paradise Cafe and where we originally crossed 74 and started up. While the up and down was grueling the scenery was awesome. Chad and I leapfrogged most of it. Today he went on to Idyllwild while I opted for a camp spot in the national forest just outside the fence of the Herkey Creek county campground with showers. The camp hosts were at Paradise Cafe and suggested setting up camp outside the fence near site 68 while using the showers to avoid the $23 camping fee. They're nice to PCT thru hikers around here! 

Hurkey Creek Campground, where I am not staying. Nice place.

First view of I-10.

Highest ground yet.

Just in case you didn't know.

March 14 - Live Oak Spring

While most hikers are hitching a ride to Idyllwild at least two of us are following the trail north to Cedar Springs where the trail is closed due to a previous fire. Along the way is a side trail to Live Oak Spring where Chad "Lost Hiker" and I met up for a friendly campfire chat. This is the first campfire for me while backpacking and the first on this trip for Chad. We found the spring to be flowing significantly with warm clear wonderful water. Tomorrow we'll hike over to Cedar Springs and the down a steep alternate trail toward Idyllwild. This section will be a little harder for me ask I broke one of my inexpensive trekking poles today. Its taped together but won't take much stress. The 1600 feet down the slope will be slow and cautious to avoid a fall. I'm looking forward to seeing Idyllwild. Betsy should be here Thursday so I'll find a campground for Tuesday and Wednesday. 

Chad at the trailhead.

Another beautiful day in the rock garden.

Equipment failure number six. Call to Big Agnes has a new pole on the way. 

Equipment Failures:

• 3 eyelets in La Sportiva Raptor trail shoes. Although they have about 1200 miles on them!
• 1 Broken carbon fiber Cascade Designs trekking pole from Costco. 
• 1 Hole in ThermaRest NeoAir sleeping pad. Apparently from a goat head at the first campground in Lake Morena. 
• 1 small hole in the screening on tent door.

March 13 - Malibu East

Morning brought an uphill slog through desert scrub from the bottom of Nance Canyon past distant greenhouses with Breaking Bad RVs parked alongside. Four miles along the trail was supposed to be a much needed water cache with approximately 16 gallons, if any was left, on private property. What that meant was anybody's guess. With some trepidation I approached the location surprised to hear a banjo playing and to be greeted by Trail Angel Mary and her horse Gracie. 

Mary was 'just learning' but it sounded pretty great to me. The location she dubbed Malibu East and came complete with a surfboard on which hikers were encouraged to register. I signed "Hikingsolo 3-13-16 NoBo" and then spent a few minutes sitting at one of several picnic tables getting sage advice on my trip to Idyllwild. While talking Paul and his two sons appeared with another Paul and his wife Laura. All were doing section hikes, Paul and sons ending today near the Paradise Cafe on route 74.

Paul and crew played leapfrog as we made our way to the intersection of route 74 and the PCT. When I arrived Paul and sons were waiting for Paul's wife, Paula, to arrive for the ride home to Poway. They gave me their extra water and offered a ride to the Paradise Cafe which I readily accepted. An early dinner was followed by the walk back to the trail crossing where I set up camp for the night just off trail. 

I'm looking forward to Betsy coming out for a few days. If the grandkids are healthy it will be this week at Idyllwild, if not, then when I get to Big Bear. Either way I'm looking forward to some time together during a zero day. 

Hikingsolo

March 11 - Rescued from the storm!

The day started off with beautiful skies and comfortable temperatures. Jonas was up early so we packed up camp and hitched a ride the one mile to the post office. Arriving a little early we sorted through our stuff to pick out any items we didn't need. Jonas chose a jacket and some extra go-pro camera adapters. I had the poncho I was exchanging for a rain jacket and pants. Once our transactions were complete we hit the trail for the trek north. The trail mostly climbed it's way through oaks and manzanita to the high ridges covered in brush and a few pines. We wound our way through the mountains and into a boulder field by mid-afternoon. 

In the distance we could see clouds starting our way and the sky lowering. As we passed the last opportunity to camp and before the three miles to Mile Herrera's Trail Angel Sanctuary it started to blow. The sky dropped and we became enclosed in the clouds. I quickly donned my raincoat (thank you Betsy!) and we stepped up the pace. Another mile and we were in the thick of it - howling wind and steady rain with temperatures dropping. Just as we approached the cut off to Mike's place we passed a lone tenter ensconced in the narrow vee of a wash at a trail cutback. We asked if he was okay and got a thumbs up. 

We hurried on unable to see much more than the trail. Soon a sign painted on a plain board appeared "Water Food Shelter" with an arrow pointing up a narrow ditch. We turned and climbed onto a road that led us to paradise!  

Trail angels Josh and Tom greeted us with a warm place to get out of the rain. Later came beer, tea, and pizza! Already warm and cozy were hikers Chad, Eric, and Judy a.k.a. Earl Grey. As we sat inside Mike's house (he was away and Josh was in charge) the snow began to fly. The thought of setting up my tent in those conditions chilled my bones. Fortunately new sleeping arrangements were arranged. Eric graciously gave up his space in the old RV parked next to the bunkhouse so Judy, Jonas, and I could rest easy. What a godsend! Eric had Josh's room, and Chad had the nearly roofless bunkhouse. While the storm raged and the RV rocked we all got a good night's sleep. The storm let up in early morning and we were off again at 8:30. 

Jonas having breakfast in the warm and dry RV.

Judy, a.k.a.  Earl Grey.

Mike Herreras place.

Sanctuary 

March 10 - Barrel Spring or Warner Springs?

"See you on the trail, Jonas," and a few seconds later, "Happy Trails, Casey!" as I left earlier than my camp mates for the trek to Barrel Springs. 

Along the way a few new flowers appeared, but mostly it was just the same terrain as the previous three hiking days with lots of steep slope covered in short scrub and occasional cactus. 

Here and there was a bright yellow burst and a few orange poppies. 

Three hours down the trail a couple from Portland passed in the opposite direction on a two day outing to experience the Anza-Borrego desert. I asked then to let Jonas know how far ahead I was so that he might be motivated to catch up. I had a nice time talking with the 22 year old from Munich and would have liked to meet up down the trail. 

Another half hour and Barrel Springs was in sight. Not yet noon this would be a good lunch break place. While lounging about a grizzled gentleman carrying a bucket of tools approached. "Let me guess, you're thru hiking!"   Ed was there to work on making the spring more friendly for hikers by installing plastic tubs into the old cracked and dirty concrete basic. Ed's what we call a Trail Angel. For nothing more than the satisfaction of helping thru hikers these angels provide many important services. 

Thanks, Ed!

It turns out that Ed also gave my buddy Jonas a ride from Scissors Crossing to a local campground on one of those miserable cold and snowy days. He picks up hikers regularly. What a guy! Today I asked that he tell Jonas how far ahead I was if he happened to show up while Ed was still around. 

Since it was so early I took off for Warner Springs across gentle hills and open pasture. A time or two I left messages in the dirt to let Jonas know where I'd camp. No sooner was my tent up and Jonas came around the corner with a hoop and a holler to say how happy he was to meet up again. 

This picture courtesy of Kelly and friend (sorry I can't remember the name). Another two angels who gave us their fresh vegetable packs and took our pictures. Thanks ladies!

Jonas and I enjoyed a pizza and cokes at the only restaurant a mile down the road then walked back in the dark. We're now resting while listening to the deafening sounds of frogs and the quite hoot of an owl. 

Another good 18 mile day on the trail. 

March 9 - Scissors Crossing to Mile 91 Water Cache

The day started off fantastic with a quick ride downhill to where I left off at Scissors Crossing. Bright sun made the 60ish temperatures perfect for hiking. A day and a half off however took its toll. I made my goal of 13.5 miles, but felt that I should have pushed on. Only my feet had a different idea. And so camp was set up, water bottles filled from the cache left by Trail Angels (Thank you very much!!!), and then it was time to explore. 

There was supposed to be a cistern in the area of the cache so I wanted to take a look. It was only supposed to be .3 miles down the old jeep road. A mile or so later  was a small building with solar panels and a nearby corral with llamas. What a surprise. I'm glad there wasn't a dog to greet me. As I backtracked a road less travelled appeared. 

Detouring through the brush I soon came upon the foundation of an old building. A few feet further on was the cistern's low rock wall. The four foot diameter hole widened into a veritable cave chamber as it dropped below ground. Fortunately it appeared solid as it chamber was cemented all around. . Two ropes made their way down into the darkness. I quickly set aside my hat and sunglasses to peer over the side afraid that I would never get them back if I dropped them. Twenty feet below was water with a definite sheen. One rope reached the water, a plastic jug tied to the end. I'm not sure I would drink anything that came out of this hole unless I absolutely was dying of thirst so nasty was the look of what I dragged up with the rope. 

A few feet back along the return route another cistern could be seen down the hill. A quick check showed no concrete reinforcing so I left quickly for fear of falling in and never being found! 

Back in camp a friendly shout came from German tourist and fellow PCTer, Jonas. We had a nice talk, shared an apple turnover I had brought, and watched the sun set.  He's here living the dream inspired by Wild. In August it's back home to resume his EMT studies. 

The night sky is incredible. Just before diving in my tent I was treated to satellite flyovers and the awesome Orion constellation straight above. 

Great day for a hike in the desert. 

Ocotillo have a tough time here probably due to the wind. 

My trail friend a horned toad.

March 8 - Zero Day in Julian

It's a little early for a zero day but the snow and cold were a bit much. I was hoping for a lamby March instead of the lion it's turning out to be.

The Julian Lodge continental breakfast was awesome as was the company. My new teacher friends were in early before taking off to Warner HS to continue work on the school's WASC certification. Tomorrow they'll drop me off at Scissors Crossing so I can continue my journey on hopefully clear trails. 

Matt and Cody, the Aussies, took off mid-morning to resume their hike with micro spikes in hand. Good journeys fellows! I'll look for your footprints to guide me. Before they left they turned me onto Mom' Pie House which give PCT hikers with permit in hand a free piece of pie with ice cream and a drink!!! They're awesome!!!  

The employees at Mom's were very friendly and truly enjoyed having me.  To accompany the pie 

I chose soup and half sandwich with iced tea. 

Spent most of the morning wandering the streets looking for a place that could polish out the damage to my sunglasses. The auto supply store was a great help but the polish left the lens wavy. After a while a replacement pair was located in the liquor store for $7.99. What can't you find in a store in a small town? 

Apparently you can't find a Gallo Dry Salami, unless it's the kind that's bigger than your head. Craving some salami on the trail lead me to all stores with groceries: Jack's, the Corner Deli, and liquor store. Jack's won out with a large chunk of aforementioned salami and a box of wheat thins. 

The afternoon was spent geocaching, preparing for departure, walking around Julian, and reading in the lobby of the comfortable Julian Lodge. Boring actually. 

Late in the day the snow is mostly gone. Tomorrow should be a stellar day for hiking. Perhaps I'll make up lost ground? 13 miles to water, then 10 more to the next water. Hmmm, maybe I can make it halfway to the second cache. 

Now, what's for dinner? Romano's appears to be the only place open. Fortunately the food is good. 

March 7 - Rain, Sleet, and Snow

Yesterday's driving rain ended with almost twelve hours of blissful sleep. The wind had died and the sun was threatening to break through as I woke. With cold temperatures breakfast was in the tent all wrapped up in my warm sleeping bag. Once on the trail the sun came out and warmed my heart. Unfortunately there were clouds looking on the horizon. Five miles down the trail the mountains disappeared and sleet began to fall. I donned Betsy's poncho, pulled up my jacket sleeves to keep the somewhat dry, and continued down the trail. Soon sleet turned to snow, then rain as I dropped to lower elevations. 

The plan for the day was to make it to state highway 2 then hitch a ride to Julian where there was a grocery store and water. Then I'd hitch back to the trail and camp out before departing for Warner Springs. The rain and snow stopped that plan. I hitched to Julian with Roger, owner of a local old-time photography studio in town. As we drove up the hill we passed a snow plow just before swerving around the curve of the mountain road. Fortunately Roger pulled it out and we continued into town at a more leisurely pace. He pointed out a good restaurant as he dropped me at the Julian Hotel Bed and Breakfast with assurances that both the restaurant and hotel were the best and least expensive in town. Thanks, Roger, you're and angel!!!

A hot shower and soak preceded a nice lunch at the Soup and Such followed by a walk around town. My guess is that people come here for apple pie as there must be half a dozen bakeries specializing in the treat. It certainly is an eclectic town. He two groceries specialize in alcohol, that's Jacks, and everything a camper needs including lots of old stuff that never sold, that's the Corner Store. 

BTW -two other PCT hikers , Matt and Cody from Sydney, caught up to me today. They've been seeing my footprints for days and were definitely excited to see me. Matt said, "I knew you were just ahead when I saw how you'd slid in the mud!" Nice guys. 

Sorry there aren't pictures today as my phone was safely stored in my pack. Just picture snow covered mountains above desert terrain with a wet and freezing hiker wearing shorts and a blue poncho while thumbing for a ride and you'll get the idea. 

Well maybe just one pic: 

At the quaint Julian Hotel. Dry, warm, and happy to be so. 

March 6 - Walking in a Cloud

Think of walking in a cloud. Now add a howling wind that literally blows you off the trail as it hits you in the side and propels you uncontrollably forward when it's at your back. Add yo this inadequate rain gear for the day and you have all of the elements that drove me to stop after nine miles to avoid hypothermia. 

Saturday night gave distant hints of what was to come, but I didn't believe "Red sky at night, Sailor's delight," meant that the wind would rip  tent stakes from the ground and drive dirt and rain under the rain fly to coat the inside of the tent with mud. Needless to say that Saturday night was sleepless at Sunrise Trailhead. 

I stopped early at a water resupply point where Rodriguez Spur intersects the PCT. water was plentiful if difficult to get at under a steel shield. 

Wet clothes hung from a makeshift clothesline in the tent. Others dried on the barbed wire fence during the few short hours of sunlight. Now I'm warm and cozy in my sleeping bag waiting for darkness to come. 

Tomorrow will be a better day! The plan is to be up early and off the Scissors Crossing where I hope to catch a ride to Julian for resupply.  Now two days behind my ambitious schedule I will need some mac and cheese or ramen to make it safely to Warner Springs. 

March 5 - Trail Angel Matt!

Started out slow today as it was cold and cloudy. The next reliable water sources are 11 and 28 miles so I thought I'd take it easy and do the eleven. Halfway to Sunrise Trailhead where I plan to camp I met up with Matt from San Diego who was training for his hike which starts on March 24th. We walked and talked quite a bit, a nice reprise from three days of seeing virtually no one. 

Matt helped me out with another equipment failure. My Sawyer water filter squeeze bag sprung a leak and he happened to have an extra along today. Thanks Matt! I'll remember your generosity when I come across other hikers in need. 

Not much out there except for stunning views of the desert. 

March 4. Another 18 miles

Day 3

The night was warmer than expected although my elevation was considerably higher at over 4000 feet. I camped off a dirt road among the manzanita. 

Slept mostly with the sleeping bag as a blanket. Unfortunately I woke up at midnight and could not go back to sleep so I read a little more of the Martha Grimes novel "Vertigo 42" whose main characters are favorites of mine: Chief Inspector New Scotland Yard, Richard Jury, and his very rich and never inept friend Melville Plant, formerly Lord Plant. Exciting stuff. 

I got up relatively early and was on the trail by 6:50. A few miles along I caught up with Buffalo and BeachBum as they moseyed on down the trail. They planned to go another mile then camp to allow Buffalo's feet to heal a bit more - more likely for the toenails to come off. Ouch!

I experienced my first equipment failure today with a broken eyelet on my shoes. 

I had contacted La Sportiva to obtain a replacement pair of laces but I didn't think the eyelets would fail. I'll attempt a repair tonight in the coziness of the tent. 

Next stop was the Mt Laguna Lodge where I met John, the proprietor, and learned that Betsy had impressed him as a good and honest person by turning in a wallet the day before. The owner was reached and returned to pick it up. I picked up my resupply package after walking back to the Pine Valley restaurant for an awesome salad and a burger.  

Then I packed up and hit the trail to finish out an 18 mile day at the Laguna Campground where there were hot showers! Yay!

Tomorrow looks questionable. Water resources are sparse over the next 50 miles. I'll need to be careful. 

Allen

March 3 - Oh, The People You Meet

John departed for the local store as I hit the trail. Met campo resident Brett near Boulder Oaks CG as he returned from pinedale on a day hike from a friends place. Ate lunch and gathered water at Boulder Oaks before crossing under I-8 on my way towards Mt Laguna Recreation Area where Betsy is geocaching before heading back to Arizona. I'll arrive there tomorrow. 

The trail now is rocky, but better than I'm used to. Lots of weathered granite, manzanita, and chaparral. 

A trail crew has been at work from mile 26 to 30 with a machine that tears the brush to pieces. I can see the tracks its left. 

At mile 33 I meet up with affable Buffalo who is waiting at the top of the hill for his wife BeachBum who has gone for water. Buffalo fills me in on a litany of ailments starting with a severely stubbed toe. BeachBum shows up with several liters of water. They're off another mile up the trail to a small campsite. I'm off down the hill where I decide that 14 dollars is too much for a camp site. I fill up with water and wander back up and over the hill to camp in the brush. 

Tomorrow I'll push on to Laguna Resort area. 

Allen

March 2nd - Getting Started

Day 1

Betsy dropped me off at highway 94 where it crosses the PCT and where I finished my short walk yesterday afternoon. No tears at least none I could see. 

41 degrees under light overcast at 7:30 am. The trail is very well maintained and unusually wide at times. Purple flowering bushes are everywhere - lilacs?  

An occasional red species will capture the eye. 

Seemingly all alone on the trail, but if I had forgotten something I surely could pick it up from the stuff left behind by transients. No need for an extra jacket, there's one on the trail. 

The view from the trail down an unnamed canyon. 

19 miles today. That's a record for this old bag of bones. I can't say it was easy. With five liters of water my pack was close to 40 pounds. I knew I was struggling a bit when I missed an obvious turn and walked an extra half mile before realizing my mistake. So what was supposed to be 18 turned into 19. The last mile passed by without water. 

Camp was at Lake Morena campground where I met John from Napa. I guess I can't complain as John was carrying a tripod in addition to 9 liters when he started. The smart one - he covered the distance in two days and then took a zero day as well. 

As the sun set I made dinner and then took it with me to the showers. After a freezing shower I ate my dinner as I warmed up. 

Now I'm snug in my bed. I'm sorry I was unable to contact anyone tonight as cell service disappeared as soon as I hit the valley. 

Allen