March 30 - Zero Day on the San Andreas

Snow in the San Gabriel mountains should be the least of my worries considering where I am, but that's been the topic of discussion all day. And where am I? Right on top of the crushing zone between the North American continental and Pacific tectonic plates where a small slip would make slipping on snow appear inconsequential. I'm sleeping, eating, and breathing on top of the San Andreas Fault!  Thanks Phil Anderson for pointing this out! I love having a geologist as a friend; it adds meaning to my travels! 

Back to the snow discussion: I'll be going around the trail to Wrightwood where I'll rejoin the PCT. The fun part is that Wrightwood is San Andreas centered. I'll walk along a ridge that lets me look down onto a great rift in the landscape. If the fault holds it should make for a nice walk. If it gives way then I'll see you all at the bottom of the slope! 

Today has been a nice resting day and a chance to let muscles regenerate. Thanks to the Fullers for dinner at Del Taco, to the Best Western for their generous hospitality (Happy Birthday to Rick, the motel manager), and to Justin for sharing a room with me and entertaining me. Tomorrow it'll be back to traveling. 

BTW - Just as the day was coming to a close eight additional thru hikers came into the hotel lobby. Seven of them will be taking a zero day to let the snow melt. One plans on tackling the mountain. Justin is thinking about it. 

No pictures today. No one wants to see a motel room.  Well, just a selfie!

Hikingsolo

March 16 - Hurkey Creek to Idyllwild

The nice lady that dropped me off at Hurkey Creek said that if I just followed the mountain bike trail next to the highway that I'd end up in Idyllwild without having to walk the narrow and dangerous road. Today I did just that, paralleling the highway for a mile or so, then taking a fast right up a meadow. Since the trail headed almost directly east I was a little apprehensive about continuing in that direction since I knew Idyllwild was west. At the end of the meadow I came to a road and stopped, threw my back down, and sat to contemplate whether this was a good move. In a few minutes two horsemen appeared and offered advice. They said the road would take me almost directly into town, just take a left at the next intersection. Then they rode on. Ten minutes later they were back, confirming what road I was to take. Nice people on the PCT!

Five miles or so later I passed a cabin and got more advice on a route. My PCT Hiker app also confirmed my route. In about 45 minutes I was at the Mile High restaurant across from the school having lunch. At the restaurant the nice waitress gave me directions to the State Park Campground where I would be able to camp for $3 and get a shower. The laundry was just around the corner. Perfect! It sure beat the county campground in Idyllwild that cost $25 and was a half mile from the laundry. And to top it off, Chad "Lost Hiker" was there! 

After laundry Chad and I shared conversation over a beer and a burger.

March 29 - Cajon Pass

The day started cold with ice on the rain fly and frost on everything. Departure was delayed to allow things to dry out. At 8:50 under bright skies I departed Cleghorn Campground to resume the PCT. 

Just a few feet onto the trail I passed a hiker taking on his phone. "Hey, Good morning!" I called, but he was totally engaged. A half mile later I heard a shout from down the trail, "Hey! Are you a thru hiker?" In just a minute Justin appeared behind me and we reacquainted each other after a week apart. He stayed four days in Big Bear and then hit the trail behind me. Didn't take long to catch up! 

We continued together down the trail toward Cajon Pass where there was a warm motel room and a McDonalds. Junk food. Mmmmm! About half way there we met up with Rick and Deb Fuller who started earlier in the day. They had the same destination. 

A few miles down the trail we walked, no, ran the ridges. Justin doesn't really walk. Former military scout I think he's learned to move fast. I was happy to try to keep up as we traversed some scary terrain. 

It wasn't long before the clouds started to close in and rain turned to sleet just as we approached McDonalds. 

We stopped for lunch in the middle of a downpour and I invited Justin to hang out at the motel. He was planning on spending the night under the railroad trestle. It's a good a thing as snow was predicted for the next two days. 

Funny thing, as we were washing clothes I pulled out a cloth 'tube' that I found at mile 91. I asked Justin if he knew what it was and he said that he'd lost a Buff like that back near Scissors Crossing, close to mile 91. Here we were at mile 342 and Justin had his Buff back!

Now I know that a Buff is a multipurpose cloth thingy that can be a hairdo thingy, a warm mask, a scarf, or a zillion other things. 

We'll stay here an extra day to avoid 5 inches of snow on the trail tomorrow. I'm beginning to think that the desert section of the PCT is only in name, as it's been more snow and cold weather than hot and dry like I expected. 

March 28 - Blown Away

Literally, the day was blown away by sustained winds of 35 miles per hour with gusts to 55. It didn't start that way. 

I woke early, 5:30, because it was warm and starry outside. The moon was just setting over the mountainside. After stowing my stuff I hit the trail in t-shirt and shorts. A mile outside of Deep Creek canyon things looked a bit different and it was time to put on a long sleeved shirt. 

Not long after that the clouds moved in closer and mist started to curl over my mountaintops along with a very brisk breeze. It was time to find the rain gear and stow the Tilley. 

The good thing about adverse weather is that it makes for fast walking. It wasn't long and Silverwood Lake dam appeared and then the lake. That's when it really started!

Four miles of trail followed the shoreline of Silverwood giving the wind ample room to gather steam. When it hit the shore it seemed to come from everywhere. One second it would blow me into the bushes and the next threaten to hurl me down the cliffs. 

Finally I came to the road that led into the state park. When I walked up to the kiosk the park official was so surprised to see me that he gave me a camping spot for free. He thought he'd be going home early considering that most people had left despite the long weekend. 

A nice hot shower later I had biscuits and gravy for dinner and proceeded to snuggle in with a hot cup of tea for the rest of the big blow. It's supposed to be over by 10:00. I can't wait!

March 27 - Desert Deep Creek

Wait for it. Wait for it...

Up early to avoid the heat of the day and to put on some miles. Deep Creek empties down a canyon at least 15 miles long with only the trail available to see it. Today I walked the 15 miles and saw huge pools, cascading waterfalls, and only a few people. 

And most of them were naked!

Nine miles from Splinters Cabin is Deep Creek Hot Springs - it should be singular since there's only one source. Hmmm? A hiker headed south, Archangel, told me there were at least 150 naked campers yesterday, but I only saw a few today. And except for the lone woman it appeared to be a boy's club. Not my cup of tea so I kept on going. Not to mention that it was not yet noon, there was trash everywhere, and there were miles to go. Apparently people are willing to hike one way at least six miles to partake. I had expected the Fullers, Deb and Rick, to catch up to me around the spring but that didn't happen. 

Still waiting?

At the end of the canyon stands a massive earthen dam, not to gather water from the stream but to prevent more water entering the steam. And to top it all off - this is it - the creek flows into a large hole at the outlet of the dam! It disappears down a drain! I can't quite understand why!

Okay, so that was a little anticlimactic. I'm sorry. Of course more happened today. I saw more flowers and crossed several bridges including a rainbow bridge. At the end of the day my tent occupied a small space at the end of a meadow. To my surprise when I walked to the other end of the meadow into the thicket around the creek and looked across the stream there were the Fullers all snug in their tent. Happy Trails!

March 26 - Arizona Trails and a Campground?

The trail today reminded me of those at home; gneiss rocks that have broken down to sandy slippery slopes, river bed walkways or at least washed out trails, horse high steps, and brush that tears your skin. It was even hot, or so it seemed, high stepping up the hills. 

Thirteen miles later I was greeted by a long span of bridge that forded Deep Creek near Splinters Cabin (named for the complaint the builder got from his wife that all the boards he used for the cabin were full of said splinters, although it is said she never got one in her hindside). The Fullers joined me for a night of cowboy camping in a designated no-camping zone. Just us and the local raccoon who kept trilling love songs at me during the night. I think he wanted my Snickers. Cowboy camping is sans tent, just because you want to or to help keep under the radar - who? Us?

One pleasant note: a trio of somewhat high but really nice kids came back to the parking area with bags and bags of trash they had picked up "to keep this place from being closed to the public." They said they do it all over, and they named a dozen other popular recreation areas close by. Thanks guys!

March 25 - Little Bear Springs Trail Camp

Knowing that the next water was ten, or twenty, miles away made the decision making for the day easy and so there was no need to get up early. A nice hot breakfast of oatmeal, pine nuts, dried blueberries and cherries followed by coffee was perfect to get started. A mile down the trail was the intersection of the PCT with Cougar Ridge Trail and my new thru hiker friends, Deb and Rick Fuller from Sarasota, Florida. We played leapfrog all the way to our mutual destination Little Bear Springs on Holcomb Creek. 

Upon arrival I had to check out the thing behind the fence. It was an open air outhouse! What a surprise. I suppose that since the surrounding forest had burned the outhouse may have gone with it and the most expedient way to put it back was with a new plastic toilet surrounded by a wooden fence. Ah, American ingenuity!

Later on we greeted several hiker groups; ladies headed down trail another ten miles and a group of dads with daughters from five to fifteen. The latter camped nearby and sangs songs into the night. Jaime also came along and joined us for a quiet campfire. 

The hills were alive with the sound of music! At least they were over in the girl's camp until about 1 am. We're not blaming the girls, we think it was the dads fault! Rock on dudes!

It was a good day!

March 24 - Back on the Trail

Buffalo Bob failed to show up, but Rudy came to the rescue just after I started hitchhiking. Words can't describe how helpful the hosts at the International Travelers House have been. I'm hoping more PCTers head their way. 

The day was pretty uneventful. Full sun, quiet trail, and 10.5 miles sums it up. 

One note: along the way there are these incredible Western Red Cedars that tower over the trail, often covered with bright green moss. 

March 23 - Zero Day in Big Bear

The whole reason to take two days in Big Bear was to wait for my package to be forwarded from Cabazon so I could augment my supplies for the next six day walk. The USPS told me that the package was bouncing back and forth between Cabazon and the warehouse and it would be at least five days for it to arrive in Big Bear. That doesn't help much since I leave tomorrow, but they said to call and they would send it on. That's not exactly reassuring. 

The rest of the day I spent repacking and arranging a ride. Unfortunately I have a cold so I'll be taking it easy on the trail, making only 9-13 miles each day until I arrive at Cajon Pass. I'm looking forward to the day I get to Desert Hot Springs and can relax in some hot water. 

Tomorrow Buffalo Bill come to pick me up at 8:15, just after breakfast at the hostel. 

Here are a few pictures of where I've been staying for the last two days. It's been a wonderful experience. 

International Travelers House hostel. Good people. 

Game room.

8 person bunk room. My home away from home.

Guest kitchen.

Porch. One of two.

Great room in the old lodge portion - 100 years old.

Fun graphics.

More of the great room. Awesome railings and furniture.

March 22 - Big Bear

Got a ride from two drywallers up highway 18 to the intersection with turn toward Big Bear Lake. At the suggestion of a nice older man I took the bus to Big Bear Lake. It's been a long time since I rode a public bus and this was quite the experience; passengers singing to Lady Gaga, a smoke break, drop off at Von's for the 15 minute break for anyone needing to get groceries. Wow!

Dropped my stuff at International Travelers House hostel then headed to the Grizzly Manor Cafe for a late breakfast and early lunch. And tomorrow's breakfast since the servings were so huge. 

Reconnected with Matt and Cody at Starbucks where we discussed resupply strategy and trail lore. These two are amazing. They'll be forging ahead at 20 miles per day into the Mohave. Maybe I'll see them in Kennedy Meadows. 

The hostel is an interesting first experience. It's a little like living in a dorm at an international school. People from Brazil, Tunisia, and the US sharing bathrooms and other living spaces. Lots of alcohol and food shared with conversation.  Nice people. 

Our host, Ian, gave an impromptu concert at the end of the day in front of a roaring fire. 

Tomorrow it's off to the post office for packages and thrift store - a Matt and Cody suggestion. 

March 21 - Onyx Summit to Close to Big Bear

Chad, Justin, and I  started early during a cold morning on our way to Big Bear. We unknowingly set up camp last night next to a movie animal sanctuary with two giant grizzly bears just feet from our tents. Not too far into the trail Justin dropped out for a ride from Papa Smurf to Big Bear for food and resupply. Information on how to get a ride was tacked to a tree along with a trail register. It seems that there are lots of trail angels who leave things for hikers in somewhat random places. 

Chad and I continued on to Arrestre Trail Camp after which I lost him. Turned out that he really slowed down due to an ankle injury. Not to worry, we met up at the end of the day. Along the way it was apparent that we were getting back into the desert with beautiful yuccas dotting the landscape. 

Chad at the end of the day. Ankle hurting. He had to leave the trail the next day for family matters. Good Luck, Chad!

March 20 - Ziggy and the Bear, Briefly

The day started early, up before sunrise and on the trail with just enough light to not need the headlamp. The goal: get to water before it got really hot! Eight point five miles downhill with one and a half liters left should be doable so long as it was relatively cool. I ran out two miles before the water faucet, but not to worry. The trail got better as I descended the final 3000 feet so the last two miles were relatively easy. At the bottom was a water faucet connected to a giant water line. What a welcome sight. 

Once down to the desert floor however, it was HOT!

The next goal was to make it to Ziggy and the Bear's White Water Trail House. The last two days of extreme descent had taken their toll on my knees and feet so the five and a half mile trek across the desert and under I-10 wasn't going to be easy. By the time I was in the right area i missed the turnoff and walked an extra half mile. Walking back it was apparent where the trail departed and the flag flying at the Trail House should have been a clue. As I reached to open the gate Chad called to see where I was. Good timing! He was sitting on the back porch telling lies with Bear. When I rounded the corner Bear jumped up and offered me his seat as he ran for a cold Gatorade. He said we could stay as long as we liked. 

I signed the trail register as visitor number 13 and had my picture taken. Bear offered to get In-and-Out for us while we relaxed. With Bear gone Chad and I debated staying the next day since I had to pick up a resupply box. About that time Ziggy came out and announced that an old thru hiker had just called to offer any hikers a ride up to Onyx Summit this afternoon to avoid the trail closure just ahead. The alternative was Greyhound and regional transit; costly and slow. I was hesitant at first because I had a box at the post office, but Ziggy gave me the phone number to the post office to forward my box to Big Bear Lake, my next destination. About that timeJustin showed up. He had just enough time for a Gatorade before the three of us piled into David's Prius for the ride. On the way David stopped at McDonald's for Justin where he bought six Big Macs and two twenty piece chicken McNuggets for the ride up to the pass. David dropped us off at the summit around 9:30 and we donned headlamps to search for a camping spot. 

All in all I spent about an hour at Ziggy and the Bear's place, but it was an hour packed with amazing hospitality and helpfulness.  

Thanks Ziggy. Thanks Bear. And Thanks David!!!

Up early. Headlamp on. 

Passed mile 200. Yay!

Water fountain. 

Chad with his In-n-Out burger. David who drove hours in heavy traffic to help us avoid more problems. Ziggy. Bear. 

As I've said before, I'm amazed at the generosity of people along this trail. Thank you, thank you, thank you.