July 19 - Elk Lake Stopover and the Sisters

July 19 - Elk Lake Stopover and the Sisters

Although today was supposed to be a short day I decided to make it a little longer. I was running short of contact solution so I thought I might check out the store at Elk Lake Resort, especially since I knew I'd be ahead of the crowd. Arriving early at the trail junction I stowed my pack behind some trees and quickly walked the mile to the resort. I arrived at 10:15, a full forty-five minutes before they opened! Now what resort that caters to campers and fishermen doesn't open for breakfast? Apparently this one. Fortunately they had a plug outside and I had brought my charger. A few minutes before eleven I saw someone inside and asked though the open window where the store might be. The woman invited me in and showed me the store, all eight feet of it. When she found out what I was looking for she called around to other stores but couldn't find any. That was really nice of her. 

About that time Alex and his dad, Mark, arrived for resupply and lunch. I decided to stay long enough for a milk shake, which they had heard were awesome. It was a good shake, made with real icecream, but I'm not sure it was worth the eight bucks it cost. Mark and Alex weren't completely sure they were going to make it to our prearranged campsite so we said our goodbyes. 

I walked back up the trail and picked up my pack and entered the Three Sisters Wilderness. All along the trail today I wondered when the forest would give way and I might see the Three Sisters. It took most of the afternoon, but late in the day the trees melted away and gave me an awesome view of the south Sister, one of three dormant volcanoes in a row. As I walked across the meadow I met a couple and asked about my friends, who I assumed to be ahead of me. The couple said they had seen them about 90 minutes before. As I was within a mile of our prearranged camp area I thought they had skipped it for some reason. I was right. They were nowhere to be seen. So with the sun starting down I kept on to the next likely spot. Almost an hour later there they were, playing in another meadow. I was happy to see they had waited for me. Now we just had to see if Mark and Alex were going to make it. Sure enough, an hour later they arrived. We all had dinner together, swapped stories, and made plans for tomorrow. We'll stop at Obsidian Falls before moving on to our separate destinations. 

Mark and Alex

South Sister revealed. 

Our campsite next to a babbling brook. 

Hiker Trash. Alex, Monica, Bill, Carlos, Roberto, Mark. 

Lupine

Really big Lupine. 

Hikingsolo (aka Allen)

July 18 - Dumbell Lake

July 18 - Dumbell Lake

Charlton Lake was just a memory when Bill, Alex, and Mark caught up to me in the burned area. I was having a bit of breakfast and escape from the mosquitoes in the forest. The sun was two hours into the sky and a cool breeze was blowing from the east when the guys came flying around the corner, if there are corners on the PCT. They quickly said, "Hey, Solo! Lunch is a Desane Lake. See you there," and disappeared. I caught up with them one other time and then for a long lunch. Carlos, Roberto, and Monica were very late leaving so they didn't make lunch but I saw them just 3 miles from our final destination at Dumbell Lake. Unfortunately Josh, Tim, and Timna did not make it. Tim a had a hard first day and was not feeling up to a 23 miler her second day. I thought the boys should have carried some of her stuff, but they needed to think of that. 

After a quick swim in the lake I made dinner and doctored my wounds. Tomorrow we're having a short day. 

Burn area. I though Sheryl Strayed may have mentioned this area in her book. Very dry. 

Old PCT Trail sign. 

Mosquitoes have made me hide behind the head net. 

Hikingsolo (aka Allen)

July 16 - Zero at Shelter Cove

July 16 - Zero at Shelter Cove

The day started off pretty quiet as the boys had finished off three 20 packs of Coors last night. Everyone was in bed around 10, early by zero day standards. Awake at five I tried to be quiet, which wasn't hard as I couldn't easily turn over without some pain, so I just laid still until I couldn't anymore. Around seven I got up, gathered my food and clothes and walked over to the resort for a shower and wash. The shower went as expected and washing my clothes started out well until I put the soap into wrong dispenser. While trying to correct my mistake soap went everywhere. Without a sink in sight I knocked on the housekeepers door and asked for help. She was very kind and not only let me use the sink but also gave me clean towels. 

Later was breakfast in the hiker tent. Oatmeal and Carnation Instant Breakfast. I then sorted out my resupply and discarded into the hiker box what I thought I wouldn't need. That took quite a while, so much so that it was lunch time. Cheese and Nemo were sitting at the table with me while I cooked tortellini. They said it looked like meat dumplings from their homeland of Taiwan, only smaller. Each ate a few pieces but refused when I offered more. 

The afternoon was spent talking with hikers and other guests of the resort. When it came time for dinner I ate the hiker special again with most of the other hikers. It was a gonga for six bucks. 

After dinner it was back to camp with my food bag and clean clothes. The fire was already started and more conversation ensued. By nine I was ready to call it a day. 

Hikingsolo (aka Allen)

July 17 - Shelter Cove to Charlton Lake

July 17 -  Shelter Cove to Charlton Lake

Today had a little change in routine. Since I didn't sleep really well due to the bruised ribs and the freight trains that came every hour or so I decided to get up early and hit the trail at daybreak. I didn't quite make daybreak, but I was on the trail before the rest of the group at 6:30. Some of them caught up to me 7 miles into the hike. Others caught up at 13 miles. Mostly I took my time, making sure each footstep was secure.  No holes, no catching toes on logs, etc. I needed to go slow as my chest didn't like it when I was breathing hard or swatting mosquitoes. Sometime after starting out I took two Advil and some of the pain receded. I took two more after lunch and the afternoon went well. I rolled into camp with Timda in town. She had flown out from New York to hike with Joshua and Tim, so today was a big day for her. She dragged into camp after 21 miles and immediately fell asleep! I walked the last four with her to make sure she was okay and to take it easy too. That was a good decision as I felt better at the end of the day.

A quick dip in the lake followed by dinner and conversation around the campfire has led me to and early bed. Betsy brought back some of those tiny bottles of booze from the duty free store in the Paris airport, mostly Scotch. She suggested  I put them in my resupply box. Great suggestion. Tonight I'll be going to bed with Johnnie Walker Red and probably sleep really well. Tomorrow I'll be up early to repeat today's effort. 

First bridge of the day. 

Second bridge. Yea! My feet aren't wet. 

First bear grass. 

Third bridge. Obligatory selfie for the day. 

Rosary Lake(s).

Hikingsolo (aka Allen)

July 15 - Shelter Cove

July 15 - Shelter Cove

The walk from Crescent Lake to Shelter Cove took us past the picturesque Diamond Peak. Unfortunately I forgot to take a picture. However, we stopped for lunch there and a few of the hikers took a swim. Late in the afternoon we arrived at Shelter Cove Resort where many hikers seem to have arrived. 

I'll probably spend an extra part of a day here to shower and wash clothes. 

Shelter Cove has a store and a restaurant with a nice deck. They serve an inexpensive yet hearty hiker meal for $6. Today's was pork loin, baked beans, potato salad, and watermelon. It was delicious. Of course regular people are interested in the PCT experience so I talked with Roger, Will, Shawn, and Charlie who were there on a guys high school buddies reunion. They bought me a beer and I shared some of my experiences. 

We set up camp across the railroad tracks just inside the forest. At dusk as I came back to my tent the boys already had a roaring fire going. More beer and more stories until after ten when most of us couldn't keep our eyes open. 

High School Buddies

Hiker gathering area outside where the smell can dissipate. 

Cheese from Japan salutes. 

Hikingsolo (aka Allen)

July 14 - Best Campsite Ever

 July 14 - Best Campsite Ever

We are camped at an awesome site right along the shore of Crescent Lake in Oregon. The wind is blowing in across the lake blowing the mosquitoes into the trees, thank God! A campfire is burning and the crew is talking with some other PCT hikers that arrived later in the day to join us. Swimming is over and the sun is going down. The camp host came by to ask us if there was anything that could make our stay better and we jokingly replied, "Beer." As the old saying goes, "The Trail Provides," so it was. Our camp neighbor opened the back of her SUV only to have a 30pack fall out on the ground. A few burst open and we were asked if we might want to finish those off? Camp emptied as hiker trash streamed over to help out. Later she gave us more undamaged cans. Yes, the trail provides! On another note, camper, Roxanne, spotted us walking into the campground and poured each of us a shot of bourbon to celebrate our accomplishments. That really got our campground stay off to a great start!

We had two easy days arranged starting today with a ride up to Windigo Pass where we picked up the Oregon Skyline Trail. This trail skirts the higher PCT allowing us to avoid some potential snow issues, but ends back on the PCT near our next destination, Shelter Cove Resort. The trail is fairly easy and was mostly downhill to Crescent Lake. 

What wasn't easy for me apparently was getting out of the parking lot at the top of the Pass. No sooner had the van left that I fell again. This time on my left side bruising the ribs on that side. So now I have bruised ribs on both sides and a blister on my left foot. Needless to say I was the slowest. They waited up for me at each trail junction however, because I was the only one with a definitive map of which trail to take. Hey even thanked me for being prepared. And when I used my senior discount to get the campsite everyone was thrilled. 

I want to make sure to mention the hospitality of the Diamond Lake Resort staff. Russel took us to and from the PCT campground and also drove us to Windigo Pass. The wait staff took care of our breakfast needs, even taking second orders from some of the hikers who liked what they saw of their neighbors meals. They also brought each of us a stamped postcard to send home to family. What an awesome place to visit!

One note about the PCT campground run by the forest service: there is another camp area just across the road to the south that had open restrooms, flushing toilets, and electrical outlets. The sites were also clean and orderly, and completely unoccupied. The hiker/biker PCT site had none of those qualities and appears to not be maintained. 

Sunset from the tent. 

Roxanne sharing her booze with hiker trash. 

Russel, the best driver ever. 

Setting up camp on the beach. 

Hikingsolo (aka Allen)

July 13 - Rim to Lake

July 13 - Rim to Lake

Thirteen  hikers left in a group from Crater Lake along the Rim Trail headed north towards highway 138 and a short hitch to Diamond Lake. Nine made it. Two selected to follow the standard route along the PCT to Mount Thielsen and potentially very dangerous snow fields. Two were last seen stopped at the beginning of a snow field near Watchman's Tower along the rim. Did they turn back or slide down the slope? We don't know because no one saw them do either but we were worried as traffic came to a long halt approaching the base of the snow field where they were last seen. Of course it was along an area in which construction was underway so that may have been the reason for the stoppage. 

All eleven of the hikers that made it to highway 138 crossed the same snow field albeit very slowly and carefully. As we neared the end of the most dangerous section where the rocks that lined the bottom of the slope ended we all slid down in a glissade. It was great fun and a relief after risking broken bones had we slipped earlier. 

Why Diamond Lake? The resort there offers hikers a free shuttle ride to Windigo Pass where we can pick up the Oregon Highline Trail, thereby skipping the snow on Mount Thielsen. That offer was too good to pass up. We'll be into our next destination, Shelter Cove, a day early, but we all feel good that we made the right decision. 

That was the good news. On another note I embarrassed myself twice today. Once by falling on the road walk along the most dangerous part of the Rim Trail. I stepped on the edge of the pavement and pitched headlong into the hiker in from of me, breaking his wooden hiking stick, but also breaking my fall. He was going to have to look for a new stick. The second embarrassment was my second fall on the trail, just minutes after exiting the road. This one damaged a rib, scraped both a knee and elbow again, covered my wounds in black dirt, but otherwise did no major damage, I think. My elbow blew up with fluid. The other hikers call it a swellbow. "Hey, Solo, how's your swellbow?" I'm sure it will be fine, but my pride has suffered. 

Interestingly enough, everyone has injuries. Most are blisters. A couple have knee problems. We should be called the walking wounded. LOL 

It's dark now. We're camped in the Hike/Bike area, which has not been maintained for years. The water is on but the bathrooms are locked, even though the lights are on. The others are slowly leaving the campfire for bed. Me too. If only the buzzing mosquitoes would do the same. 

Crossing a snow field. A tame one. 

Part of a video as the group glissaded. 

Selfie. 

Eleven of Thirteen. 

Hiker Trash on the lawn of the swimming area at Diamond Lake Resort. 

Hikingsolo (aka Allen)

July 12 - Crater Lake National Park Nero

July 12 - Crater Lake National Park Nero

It wasn't exactly a Zero, but it was close. In the morning I took the trolley from Mazama Village to the Rim along with other hiker tourists and some actual hikers hitting the trail. My plan was to visit the store on the Rim to buy a birthday present for my hiking granddaughter Emily and then have the store ship it to Arizona. I didn't know that there were two stores and the one I chose said they didn't ship packages; I would have to go to the post office three miles down the road to ship it. So I thought what the heck, I could road walk or hitch. No big problem. As I stood on the corner trying to hitch a ride along came a National Park Ranger SUV that pulled over next to me, both rangers smiling. One rolled down her window and said something. I thought,"Wow! What luck to get a ride from the Park Rangers," but that was not to be the case. As I opened the back door of the SUV, filled by the way with two very impressive shot guns, the female Ranger said, "No, No! You can't hitchhike in the park. It's illegal."  Embarrassed for not knowing this and for mishearing their first announcement I apologized profusely and shut the door. They were very kind and drove on. I walked the three miles downhill and mailed my package, then three miles back up hill to finish my sightseeing. 

Later in the afternoon I joined the other hiker tourists and took the trolley back to camp. 

So, technically I guess I could say I hiked at least six miles today, and some of it right along the PCT. A Nero. 

Back at camp they had the showers working at the store so I presoaked dirty socks, underwear, and a shirt in a plastic bag with some liquid soap before heading back there for a shower.  I started my shower, rinsed and rung out my clothes and using a once dirty sock as a washcloth cleaned myself up. A quick mustache trim and I was good to go back to hang up my damp clothes. Then it was back to the store where I could charge my phone, headlamp, Kindle, and solar recharger. About three hours later I was back in camp with the least expensive dinner I could find: two hard boiled eggs, a meat stick, a beer, and cottage cheese. About $7.50. Beer was less expensive than soda!

After dinner I talked with Taiwanese citizens Cheese and his friend about why they were doing the PCT. Of course, they saw the movie "Wild" and decided to go for it. Not exactly what they expected, but they love it anyway. 

Snow still at the top. The road is not yet fully open. 

Observation deck closed!

Selfie of the day while road walking. 

Hikingsolo (aka Allen)

July 11 - Crater Lake NP : Its a Party!

July 11 - Crater Lake NP : Its a Party!

On the way to Crater Lake National Park I met just a few people; Debbie from Vancouver British Columbia, Pascal from somewhere overseas, and the guy that deserted me to the crazies that showed up last night after the family went elsewhere. 

I'll start with the crazies. Just as I turned off my the kindle and decided to sleep a group showed up with headlights scanning everywhere, but it seemed especially in my direction. Not only did they see my tent, they set up their hammocks and tent just feet from me, lit a fire (there are fire restrictions in place - duh), and proceeded to talk about how quiet they should be (Not!). In return I got up at 4:15 and shown my light around as I made as much noise as I could getting ready for the trail.   I hope they appreciated my preparations. 

I was up early on purpose since today needed to be a 23 miler if I wanted something other than oatmeal for dinner. I miscalculated how long it would take me to get to Crater Lake NP and only included enough dinners if I really hoofed it the last day. Fortunately I made it, but not without some extreme effort. 

The first indication of a potential bad day was when I met Pascal as he passed me on the trail. I met him again half an hour later as he turned around to get the water he had forgotten. Not good. It was 19 miles between water holes! That resolved, he passed me again and led the way over snow covered trail. I blindly followed his tracks through a particularly difficult snow covered section with lots of blowdowns only to find that I was almost a mile from the PCT on a trail that went somewhere I didn't want to be. At the point I noticed his footprints going the other way I checked my phone navigation and promptly sat heavily on a log to let out a stream of F*** F*** F***! Then I calmly turned back and my 23 mile day became 26 miles. 

That wouldn't have been so bad except for the blister on my heel and the fact that the last five miles were snow covered and mosquito infested which made for very slow progress. I made sure I checked my navigation whenever I lost tracks or was unsure if the trail took a turn. It was a good thing I did because several times I was a few hundred feet from the trail, but clearly following a series of footprints. 

As I trudged into Mazama Village I could see hikers at the store. My destination was the restaurant as I had mostly skipped lunch (oatmeal for lunch? Yuck) and it was already 6:30. I met several hikers there who gave me the low down on where to camp, etc. after dinner I picked up my resupply box at the store and talked with a few hikers. Most had skipped to Ashland to avoid the snow in the Sierra. 

The hiker camp looked a bit like a homeless camp in the woods with tents set up in any space available and stuff left out on picnic tables for the critters. I put my box and food into a bear box and set up just in time for everyone to come back and tell stories around the campfire. 

18 year olds Levi and Phil, Captain, Sharon (Poison Oak), and Cougar Bait are just some of the characters I met. It seemed that everyone was avoiding the snow and yet they all enjoyed glissading down Devils Peak. 

Sorry, but not many pictures on this section. I think I was too focused on standing upright and making the miles. 

Yes, that's the trail. About 95% of the last five miles was covered with mounds of snow in between patches of wet trail. 

Hikingsolo (aka Allen)

July 10 - Unexpected Fun

July 10 - Unexpected Fun

I can hear them from a mile away hooting and hollering and laughing. A guy just showed up in camp and says it's a family of four who lost most of their gear all over the snowy hillside. They wanted to send their packs down first and I guess it didn't work out so well as they tumbled open and disgorged their contents everywhere. Then they slid down - it's called glissading when one slides down a steep snowy incline on your butt - only to have to turn around and climb up to get their gear. 

The guy went in search of a secluded camp spot even though I offered one here hoping he'd take one of the two remaining. I'm sure he's thinking what I'm thinking, that the family is going to show up and take over this area. It may not be a quiet night after all. I arrived an hour ago limping in on a sore left foot blister to set up camp and wash up. Until a few minutes ago it was just me and the mosquitoes. If I'm lucky it will stay that way. 

Today was fairly uneventful. Seventeen miles of flat and, except for the blow downs, easy walking followed by four miles up hill and one exhilarating mile sliding on my butt or slipping in the snow. I have to say it was fun, even if there wasn't anyone watching. I too had to trudge uphill in the snow as I lost my hat on the way down. That just meant I could do it again! Yahoo! 

I saw only one other person all day, not counting the sleeping figures along the trail late this afternoon. I didn't count them because I couldn't tell for sure if they weren't dead. Or which way they were going. PCT humor.  

I also got to talk with Betsy, the highlight of my day. Since I was climbing a mountain I had cell service, if only for a while. Betsy was just entering Montana on her way to visit my sister Sherri's extended family. I also sent Granddaughter Emily a Happy Birthday wish.  She just turned 11. 

Now that I'm at higher elevation I don't see as many wildflowers, but the ones here are sure pretty. 

Lavender bunches dot the hillside. 

Indian paintbrush and the purple flowers together make a pretty picture. 

The yellow ones I've never seen before. 

My camp. One of the mountains in the background had the fun snow field. 

The family just showed up. Maybe the mosquitoes will carry them away! I may be in luck!

Hikingsolo (aka Allen)

July 9 - Lava Takes Over

July 9 - Lava Takes Over

The day started like all other if only a little cooler. The trail at the start of the day was mostly flat and meandered through dense forest over a surface that has been years in the making, soft on the feet. About six miles into this 21 mile day the terrain took a turn. While still meandering, the trail became hard and rocky with a surface augmented by a trail crew that dropped red cinders and yellow dirt between gray lava rock. I commend the crew for their efforts as it made walking on the lava almost enjoyable. In the Sierra there are similar spots where broken rock cascades down slopes covering the trail with 4 to 8 inch stones. No joy to walk on, they're called Ankle Busters. Oregon has seen fit to save a few ankles. 

Once again I didn't see many people. One couple just packing up in the morning on a ten mile hike into Fish Lake. And another couple doing only the Oregon section that have camped next to me with their dog. I may see them again at Crater Lake. 

The occasional blow-down that requires an alternate course. I wonder how horses do it. 

Trail across old lava field. 

Tomorrow is Granddaughter Emily's 11th Birthday. I hope I have cell signal. It's been almost nonexistent along this stretch. 

Hikingsolo (aka Allen)

July 8 - Takin' It Easy

July 8 - Takin' It Easy

I was so tired yesterday that I didn't carefully check my mileage. I knew I didn't make my first stop on my itinerary, but I also didn't think I did 23 miles, not on my first day. No wonder I fell asleep immediately and didn't wake until almost 3:30 in the morning. I slept in a little and decided that today would have to be easier. By five this afternoon I finished 17 miles, placing me in the middle of no where where I set up camp. I've see three hikers and two horse people today. Only section hiker Bob had anything to say, and I probably won't see him again as he has one bad Achilles and a huge blister on the other foot. And I though I was moving slow in the heat!  I've seen more deer than people and have had more conversations with the deer. With dinner done and two hours of daylight left I'll probably read something on the kindle for a change. 

The heat has cracked the earth. Much of the trail looks like this. Two weeks ago there was supposedly snow on the ground. Hmmm. 

More flowers. 

Second day selfie. 

Camp. 

Hikingsolo (aka Allen)

July 7 - Back on the Trail

July 7 - Back on the Trail

Betsy dropped me off at the trail around 9:00. We said our goodbyes and set out on our separate journeys. It will be at least two months before we see each other again; the longest we've ever been separated. I also said goodbye to our kitten, Sissy. I may not see her again at all. She's seventeen and may not survive the trip to Canada and back. She's a good traveler, but the vet thinks she should have succumbed to cancer years ago. I'll miss my girls. 

Landmarks define the trail. Pilot Rock was the first, discernible in the distance. Around the corner Mt. Shasta came into view to the south. My path took me south and east to Pilot Rock, then north and west for a view of Ashland across the valley. 

Along the way I met Monica and mom Yvette with dog, Birdy. They were taking a break just as I crested a ridge. It's Monica's first long hike and mom and Birdy were along for support over the first few miles. 

I also met Trip and JD who were headed south to make up trail miles as they wait for the Sierra to melt. They let me know that the spring I was standing at was the last water for 13 miles heading north. I'm glad they were there because even with having filled up I got to my campsite by the first water on empty. 

It was a long and hard day after not carrying a pack for a while. I've definitively lost my trail legs. The twenty miles I covered took until almost dark. It was very hot, and while I drank lots, cramps set in after about fifteen miles. I lumped into camp and drank another round of electrolytes hoping that I'll sleep through the night. Tomorrow is another day and I'm hoping for an early start. 

Ready to hit the trail. Twenty five pounds heavier than the last time I was in Ashland. That won't last long. 

Sissy ready to roll. 

Monica and mom. 

Mordant Skippers, an endangered species. No camping in meadows where they live. 

Flowers, of course. 

Hikingsolo (aka Allen)