Hikingsolo on the PCT

Tuesday, August 15, 2017

August 14 - Skykomish

I played leapfrog on the trail with the couple that camped close to me last night. I left just before they did, but they passed me when I stopped for breakfast. Then I passed them as I move a bit faster. Then they passed me again as I had lunch. And finally I passed them again and they said they wouldn't see me again as they were going to camp. We had a nice conversation before I took off for my last few miles.

My resupply is in the small Great Northern Railroad town of Skykomish, named after the river that runs next to it. The post office doesn't open until 11:00 which seems typical for these small towns so I'll have to rest up a bit. I'm not complaining! If all goes well I'll be back on the trail by early afternoon.

Lots of lakes in the Northern Cascades, even though the trail doesn't always come close to them.

Another lake.

The town of Skykomish is very picturesque with mowed lawns and flowers everywhere.

The river runs by it.

Hikingsolo (aka Allen)

Monday, August 14, 2017

August 13 - Approaching 200 Miles To Go

As of today only 206 miles to the Canadian border. Another 12 or so into Manning Park. Not that anyone (me) is counting.

Today was a rather slow day after yesterday's marathon. Only 3050 feet of elevation gain and 5500 feet of loss. That's two thousand feet different from yesterday. Still, it was slow. I think my body wanted to eat berries more than hike. They were good!

Deep Lake along the way.

Deception Lake where I camped.

Typical trail. Mossy, green, and soft on the feet, or brutally rocky.

Hiker Trash in his tent. It's cold outside for a change.

Hikingsolo (aka Allen)

August 12 - Long Wet Day

It's 9:20 pm and I am waiting for dinner to rehydrate. In the meantime I've had a snort of Kentucky Bourbon to settle the nerves.

The last six miles into camp took a while, but it was either hike downhill those six miles at the very end of the day or do it in the morning. After a long wet slow Saturday it seemed to make more sense to get to the bottom of the next 3000 foot climb and hope it doesn't rain Sunday, making the trek uphill in the cool of the morning.

I managed to make it to the top of the mountain before the drizzle set in. By the time it was raining I was already wet and getting wetter every minute. The trail down was overgrown with ferns and other plants after a fire devastated the slope years ago. Every plant laid a new layer of mist on me, and even though it wasn't raining hard I was soaked to the bone.

At the bottom of the hill I decided to break for lunch at a campsite close to a stream. The site was under huge trees and relatively dry, so I took off my wet shirt, shoes, and socks, put on my jacket, and made a hot lunch of spicy ramen and hot tea. That was enough to power me up the next 3000 foot climb. To top it off, I added cheese chunks to the ramen and ate a Heath bar with the tea. Yum! And best of all, the rain stopped, the sun came out, but it remained cool. Yea!

Today I covered 24 miles, but very slowly. The up and down elevation change totaled 5500 feet up and 5000 feet down. I'll sleep well tonight.

Clouds moving it as I climb to the top of the ridge.

More clouds appear.

The streams started running pretty heavily.

Finally, the smoke is clearing!

I'm camping somewhere down there! 7 pm and three miles to go.

Hikingsolo (aka Allen)

August 11 - Short Hike

The night at the Washington Ski Club (not its official name, but I couldn't find it) was wonderful. I slept extremely well with all of my gear either on the bed or hanging nearby. Even the other seven people in the room didn't bother me. I woke as usual at 5:00, but drifted back to sleep for and hour or so. Around 6:30 I went down to the kitchen where coffee had just been brewed. While sitting with the Irish hiker Peer Pressure and one of the volunteer caretakers many stories were told.

Around nine I took off for the grocery store, aka Exxon Station to pick up something fatty and cheesy to supplement my diet. I also had a piece of fried chicken and a chicken sandwich with a coke. By the time I got back to the lodge there were pancakes on the griddle. Perfect! Another breakfast.

I was in no hurry to leave as I wanted to rest my feet. By noon I was ready to go and headed up hill for the next seven miles. After arriving at the lake I had planned on staying at I realized I would go a little crazy since it was only three thirty and I didn't really have anything to do. So I hiked on another three miles and set up camp closer to five thirty.

While setting up camp I talked with two sets of hikers looking for water. One group was six young men who decided to camp in the meadow next to me. I was a little surprised they had no idea where to get water as that is the most important thing I've learned about backpacking. Water location is critical everywhere except the High Sierra. Both groups had tried and failed to reach a lake about five hundred feet below us. When asked if I knew of a way down I said that if there was one it would be a trail on our maps. I used my apps to tell them there was a water source another mile up the trail. The boys took off their packs and went for water while the other group was hoping there would be camping nearby.

The start of The Catwalk, a sheer cliff to the right and a solid wall straight up on the left.

On the Catwalk.

Nice intro to the Northern Cascades.

Camping above the lake.

Hikingsolo (aka Allen)

Friday, August 11, 2017

August 10 - A Berry Nice Bad Trail

The 20 miles into Snoqualamie Pass were awesome from the standpoint of the number of berries I was able to consume. However, the last nine miles were a combination of trip hazards, no-see-um trail due to overgrowth, tough terrain, and rocks. Very slow going.

I'm about worn out. Hungry at night. Slow to get going in the morning. Sweating heavily every day. It's hot! Next section I need to slow down a bit. Good thing I'm slightly ahead of schedule.

Huckleberries.

Blueberries.

Salmon berries. Yum!

Bambi with Kristen. They gave me a ride to the WAC Ski Shelter where I was able to shower and sleep in a realish bed!

Hikingsolo (aka Allen)

Tuesday, August 8, 2017

August 7 - No Rainier

Yes, there was no Mt. Rainier despite the fact that we were in Mt. Rainier National Park. The smoke was so bad that it wasn't visible. At one point I could just make out a snowy slope close by, but no mountain. Hence no pictures. Actually I could put in any picture of a mossy forest and that d scribes today's hike.

Selfie at a stream crossing.

It's out there. Trust me. No one took it.

Hikingsolo (aka Allen)

August 6 - Knife Edge

The wind blew all night while the red moon made it slowly across the sky. I wasn't sure if it was the wind or the light of the moon that kept me awake, but by 4:00 I was thinking about hitting the trail. I made oatmeal and tea for a leisurely breakfast in bed. By 5:30 I was crossing a large patch of snow and peering ahead as to where the trail went.

I was totally unprepared for what I saw! A short distance ahead the trail followed the knife edge of a ridge that stretched out of sight. As I approached the knife edge I looked back to see if anyone was following. "If a hiker falls off a knife edge and no one is around will he make a sound?" I expect so, but I wasn't going to give it a try. The trail was extremely rocky so footing was a problem. I took it exceedingly slow and still slipped or tripped a couple of times. Halfway across the two mile long stretch I met a girl hiking south. She said, "I was totally unprepared for this! I was wondering what everyone was making a fuss about." Now we know. The short hike was totally exhilarating!

The rest of the day was spent trying to make it to White Pass for my resupply. I'm a day ahead, and that's good because everyone says that from Snoqualamie Pass north takes longer that most expect. I hope to make up additional time on this section.

My resupply was doubled by my good friends Deb and Rick Fuller! If you've been reading this blog for a while then you have met Deb and Rick and know that Deb made an untimely exit from the trail last year (she's recovering and hoping for 2018). Deb and Rick have hearts of gold and arranged to send me a goody box. It had all kinds of things hikers love: candy bars, bacon (yes, bacon), meals and deserts, hydration mixers, BenGay (used immediately on an ankle strain), and two cans of anchovy stuffed olives. There was so much that I might have left something out. So it was Christmas for my hiker friends. We ate the candy bars and shared around items mostly from my resupply including some Mountain House meals, granola, and a few other items. One can of olives was fought over by my new Taiwanese friends NoEnglish and Burger. Anything I couldn't carry beyond the next six days went to the hiker box. Let me tell you, there were some happy hikers! Thanks Deb and Rick!

Sunrise in Goat Rocks Wilderness.

Oh boy! What have I gotten my self into? Had to tie my hat on my head to keep from losing it over the edge.

Yes, the trail is on that ridge behind me.

Hiker resupply at the 76 Station, aka Kracker Barrel Store and Deli.

Hikingsolo (aka Allen)

Sunday, August 6, 2017

August 3 - Shortcut to Trout Lake

I knew I had a couple of packages waiting for me at the post office at Trout Lake. What I didn't anticipate was that I wouldn't get there before Friday at 4pm without a superhuman effort. Something I wasn't prepared to do. See, today was Thursday, and I could not possibly get to the normal PCT pick up point 43 miles away before 6:00 on Friday. I just can't walk that fast. So I started asking southbounders about other ways to get there earlier. A couple hikers mentioned that the road from Horse Crest Campground - 13 miles from my Thursday morning starting point - connected straight to the road into Trout Lake although it was fifteen miles of road walk. That was longer than the road walk from the northern connection to the PCT into Trout Lake, but it also cut out one and one half days and 30 miles of forest walk in what has been described as mosquito hell. I decided to try to hitch a ride.

Karla and Mike were the first to pick me up. They were a fun loving couple playing a little hooky so they could enjoy a little together time on Goose Lake, about six miles down the road. They made room in their standard cab Chevy, which was so high off the ground I could have used a ladder to get in. After explaining what I was doing, Karla and Mike dropped me off at Goose Lake. I helped unload the raft and get them going on their adventure. Karla gave me an awesome tuna sandwich and an ice cold can of peaches for the road. I started walking. Just eight miles to go.

Several cars passed and I made it about three miles before Susie and Earl, a retired couple from Oregon, passed me by, and then backed up to see what I needed. I was so happy to see those backup lights! I explained and told a few stories as Earl drove me straight to the post office. With fifteen minutes to spare I was able to get my packages!

These are two awesome couples that took a chance on an old man walking the back roads with a backpack. Thank you both for the help!

I spent the rest of the day at the store re packing for the next leg and washing clothes. Bev, the store owner, makes hikers feel right at home with access to the back rooms and washing facilities.

Later I had a burger with other hikers at the local cafe. A few of us were headed to the county park to camp for the night, so a local with a guitar joined us to keep us company.

Karla and Mike

Susie and Earl.

Set up

At the park. Sun, Rogue, and the guitar player somewhere in the background.

Hikingsolo (aka Allen)

August 4 - Mt. Adams

Trail Angel Gary gave Sun, me, and Rich a ride out to the trailhead this morning at 7:00 am, but not before I picked up a cup of coffee and a new feline friend. The store cat wouldn't leave me alone until the store opened and then he bolted inside for some food.

The trail was nice and cool to start, but I couldn't see much due to the smoke from the fires in BC. It wasn't until I was almost under Mt. Adams that it loomed over me. I was so shocked to see it that I stopped dead in my tracks and laughed.

The rest of the day was spent walking around the mountain some 25 miles.

Trail Angel Gary. Former wild lands fire fighter and sawyer. Supervised and trained hotshots on how to saw trees.

A little hazy. My nose ran most of the morning.

Mt. Adams

Debris flow.

Hikingsolo (aka Allen)

August 5 - Goat Rocks Wilderness

Whereas the first hundred miles into Washington was long ups and downs on steep trails or old logging roads surrounded by trees, the next seventy miles have been mostly spectacular. Yesterday was in the foothills of an enormous volcano, Mt. Adams, with evidence of lava and debris flows, some of which continue today. Today has been in another old volcanic area ringed with high peaks and very steep slopes leading to narrow forested valleys. There is still snow melting up here. Across from and below my campsite is a still frozen lake nestled between the craggy peaks. These are not the pretty peaks of the High Sierra. They look more like the jagged edges of a lava flow. Below the peaks sparse trees and grassy meadows dominate the landscape. Wild flowers are everywhere.

Goat Rocks appears to be a very popular area. There are backpackers of all descriptions here from families to PCT hikers. Mostly there are groups out for some weekend challenges.

Interestingly this area is part of the Yakima Tribe's reservation, but other than a few signs prohibiting hunting and off trail exploring they seem to allow hikers without restrictions. I don't think that is typical elsewhere. I applaud the tribe for sharing this area. It's quite beautiful.

As the smoke clears towards sunset Mt. Adams is just becoming visible. Rainer and St. Helens are also out there, somewhere, or so I'm told.

Flowers along the trail.

Starting into Goat Rocks Wilderness.

Campsite up on top of a pass. Nice breeze.

Hikingsolo (aka Allen)

Thursday, August 3, 2017

August 2 - Mice Start

Actually mice didn't start today, they ended yesterday, quite abruptly for the family that invaded my cozy campsite at 10:30 last night. Never mind that I was sort of glad that they woke me up since I had slept through my alarm to take my pill. Headlamps invaded my space, tiny as it was, in a desperate search for a new campsite for the displaced retirees and their thirty something son. They had decided to stay at Rock Creek, fortunately for me, taking up the three decent sites and leaving only two marginal sites available. Squeek was in one site trying to decide if he was going to stay as I arrived. The other site was crap! So after a quick swim in the wonderfully cold creek I heeded the warnings of others and took off up trail another miles to a campsite 'nearby' a seasonal stream.

The word 'nearby' is how Halfmile CHA when the campsite could be before, after, or up to 100 yards away in the forest. This one was up an old unused trail and I was ecstatic to be alone there as it wasn't very big and was easily overlooked, I thought. But if anyone could find it a couple who had just experienced the horror of mice chewing through the bottom of their tent and then invading as they slept were certainly candidates for success. As they scrambled to get the mice out they checked their neighbor to find about twenty mice having a party on his pack. That sealed the deal - they were outa there.

They apologized profusely for waking me up, and I felt bad for their plight, so I pointed out the small areas close by so they could set up. To their credit they were very quiet I was asleep again in no time.

In the morning I was up early and down the trail to avoid the heat. That didn't happen, so a dip in the Wind River and several head washings in other creeks kept me coolish. I ended the day with a 3.5 mile hill climb. The other six miles will come in the morning.

It's so humid here that big trees grow out of old dead ones.

Slugs on the trail. Lots of them!

The swellbow is still there but it's getting better.

One of the many bridges crossing big creeks.

Another bridge.

Hikingsolo (aka Allen)

August 1 - Washington

The Toll lady refused my dollar today so I walked across the bridge as a PCT Hiker.

20 miles later and 4000 feet higher in 100 plus heat and I'm tired but feeling accomplished.

Bridge of the gods entrance. Appropriately a logging truck is waiting to pay the $3 Toll for a multi-axle vehicle.

On the bridge!

Only 502.7 to go, plus 12 in Canada!

Slug on the trail.

Truly a green trail.

Lots of power lines. Mt. Adams in the distance.

Hikingsolo (aka Allen)

July 31 - Cascade Locks Zero

After my visit with the ER Staff last evening I decided to sleep in a bit. After all, the Pharmacy didn't open until 9:00. No hurry getting there too early.

Around 8:00 I left Shrek's place and started walking the four and a half miles towards Stevenson, Washington via the Bridge of the Gods. I passed through downtown in the blink of an eye. Nothing there opened before 11:00 on Monday, not even the Cafe. At the Bridge Park there were a few hikers hanging around, some newly arrived southbound and some preparing to head north. I followed a couple of guys onto the bridge and was stopped at the Toll Booth. "That'll be a dollar for walkers." I was pretty sure that the hikers didn't have to pay, but I didn't have a pack, so I antied up a buck and went my way.

A right turn on Highway 14 got me going in the right direction. Hitching wasn't productive so I walked the hour and ten minutes Google said it would take. Along the way I stopped for a few blackberries as I had forgotten breakfast and water. It was a bit warm walking along the Columbia River and by the time I got there my shirt was drenched.

Once I dropped off my prescriptions at the pharmacy I strolled across the street to the grocery store - something Betsy always does. I bought a turkey wrap, donut, coffee, and some fruit. Then had a seat outside to have breakfast. All of it was excellent although I should have bought more fruit.

Instead of walking back in the hundred degree heat I hitched a ride. This time it took less than a minute. Carlos (his travel name) gave me a ride in his sweet C-Class van right back into Cascade Locks. He retired, moved to Panama, didn't work out, bought the van and never looked back! What a life.

On the way back to Shrek's I met a nice kitty cat just hanging out on the busy Main Street.

I stopped in at the Cascade Locks Ale House to pick up my resupply box and to have the free beer they advertise for PCT hikers. Jules, the manager, was great. She gave me the tour and made sure to point out that her phone number was on display. She will pick up a hiker in need anywhere in a 150 mile radius. She also pays for those free beers out of her own pocket! What an awesome lady. I made a small donation to help her with the beer.

Around two thirty Shrek emerged from the swamp to do a little work on the hiker hostel. The inside looks great, but the outside shakes needed removing and plywood siding installed. I helped him finish off most of one side with. Few tricky cuts he hadn't thought of. By the time we were done it looked great.

Then it was time for dinner. Jules showed up with a pizza! Later I went to the bar and had another beer and a salad. I spent most of my time talking with Squeek and a guy that had the Hiker Burger: one pound of ground sirloin sandwiched between two personal sized pepperoni pizzas with three strips of bacon and cheddar cheese. Potato fries on the side. $15. Another of Jules' ideas.

Jules in her native environment. The bar.

I can't believe he ate the whole thing!

New siding!

The Shrek Swamp.

Hikingsolo (aka Allen)