July 6 - Fast Pass to Tuolumne

Several years ago I hiked from Agnew Meadow at Mammoth to Tuolumne Meadows in Yosemite. At the time I was pretty proud of myself in that I completed the hike in five days with one day spent base camping, so really it was only four days. Yesterday and today I completed the same hike, although on a slightly different trail for part of it, in a day and a half. I guess I'm in somewhat better shape now than I was then. Of course 900 miles of walking will do that to you. 

This morning I left the area of Thousand Island Pass (not much of a pass BTW) to hike up Donahue Pass. There was a little snow at the top but otherwise it was a relatively easy pass to climb. Donahue is the southeast entrance to Yosemite and holds special meaning for those going south on the John Muir Trail as its their first real pass.

The trail down from Donahue years ago was a nightmare of baseball, softball, and bowling ball sized rocks strewn down the narrow V-shaped trail surface. That year I remember the rangers hauling out an injured hiker who had broken a leg on the poor trail. Since then a trail crew has visited, and while the trail is still rough and very steep in places it's remarkably safer and better constructed so as to minimize the possibility of injury. I applaud the trail crew that did the extensive rock work to repair almost four miles of trail. 

I got into Tuolumne Meadows later in the day to find the grill about to close and Trail Angel Legend about to get started cooking a free spaghetti dinner. Betsybgave Legend and his sidekick Raven a ride back in June from Kennedy Meadows Campground to the KM store. Legend didn't remember the ride until I mentioned that Sissy the cat was in the Jeep. Then he not only remembered but said how nice Betsy had been to him and Raven and to the other hikers she took down to Ridgecrest. He even invited her to participate with him at one of his next venues, Donner Pass or Belden State Park. 

Legend travels along the PCT bringing trail magic to each stop, sometimes for a week at a time. This year he's spent $4500 on food and accepted $4300 in donations not counting food or supplies. Today someone gave him a case of water to give away. He also has a notebook with pages on how to become a traveling trail angel. Definitely a committed individual Legend has been at this since 1991. 

Lyle Canyon's beauty. 

Hikers outside Tuolumne Meadows Store. 

Legend and his notebook of things to do and say as a trail angel. 

Raven. Legends helper. 

Legend cooking Spaghetti. 

Leaving Ansel Adams Wilderness and entering Yosemite. Lots of rocks!

Lyle Creek. 

Hikingsolo

July 5 - Thousand Islands Lake and Pass

Up early I made my way to breakfast and then the post office to pick up my resupply box. I have a rough idea what's in each box, but I don't remember the specifics so each time I open one I'm surprised. This one was no different except that it had some important mail Betsy had sent on. It also had refried beans, which meant I had to make a trip to the supermarket for tortillas. I should have also picked up cheese but I was a little clueless this morning. Fortunately Mammoth has a great free bus system during the summer and I didn't have to wait too long to get to the store and back to the hostel to pack up. Then I walked across the street to pick up the bus to the Mammoth Adventure Center where the bus to the trailhead takes off. I was on the trail by 11:00 at mile 907. Today I ended at mile 924.7 just two miles past Thousand Island Lake with tired dogs. I should have gone further since there was still four hours of daylight but I didn't want to risk a sprained ankle or worse since I was tired. 

I remembered doing a trail in this area years ago. I wanted to walk the PCT High Trail but the forest people would not issue me a permit saying that was for PCT hikers only. So I walked the John Muir Alternate trail past several incredible lakes. Today I found the High Trail to be a more direct route and a little easier than the JMT Alternate but not as interesting. The two trails join at Thousand Island Lake just before heading up Donahue Pass and into Yosemite. 

Entering Ansel Adams Wilderness. Boo yah!!!

Shadow Lake where I walked years ago. 

Thousand Island Lake with Banner Peak in the background. 

Flowers

Hikingsolo

July 4th in Mammoth

Woke up in the forest with a bit of a headache from not drinking enough water and not eating dinner. Jim and Beth, my kidnappers, dropped me off close to Good Life Cafe, but on my way there I passed the Lions Club Pancake Breakfast. Four pancakes, four sausages, coffee, and juice seemed like a good deal for eight dollars. I sat with an older local couple who reminisced about their days hiking the area trails. Betsy called from Colorado where she was visiting Geo Woodstock, a huge geocaching event. She sounded in good spirits despite a minor problem with the Jeep's tail lights. 

After breakfast I visited Looney Bean, a coffee shop, to use their WIFI. Just outside the 4th of July Parade passed by. Two hours of floats, kids groups, bikes, cars, wagons, Razrs, and Emergency Service vehicles passed by. By the end my devices were almost fully charged. I spent another hour hanging out with other hikers who had congregated outside. 

I still had some shopping to do so I walked about town picking up the few things I needed. I also mailed a card to Emily for her tenth birthday. Tomorrow I'll have to check my resupply to make sure I have everything. Then I'll be back on the trail. 

Also today I FaceTimed with Emily, Mackenzie, Elizabeth, Kathy, and Steve. The girls were preparing a skit for the afternoon including guitar music by Elizabeth. I'm sure it will be memorable. Kathy says she'll send pictures. 

Tonight I'm at the Moderne Hostel which is very clean and new. A real bed will be nice. I need to be up early tomorrow to pick up my box. Word is that Mammoth doesn't have local mail delivery so the post office could be very busy. 

Sorry, no pics today except for this one....

Relaxing at the Hostel after cleaning up a bit. 

Hikingsolo

July 3 - Mammoth Before the 4th

Seven miles into Red's Meadow this morning. On the way passed a PCTA trail crew made up of mostly octogenarian volunteers on mules. Also scared a young boy and his dad by warning them of the Trail Gorilla lurking in the bushes just up the trail a few hundred yards. Too funny! 

Caught the shuttle just as I arrived at Red's Meadow store with no time to spare. Next stop was Devil's Postpile to pick up a few tourists, then on to the Mammoth Discovery Center. Throngs awaited our arrival. I can't say I've seen more people in one spot since Disneyland or maybe Yosemite Valley. 

Accommodations are almost nonexistent in town. PCTers said they were stealth camping behind McDonalds, in the trees across from the Brewery, in the forest a short distance from Shady Rest Campground in town, or anywhere they could. 

I met a nice couple from Truckee at Mammoth Brewing who kidnapped me and drove their Vanagon into the forest near Inyo Craters where we camped among the pines. Their dog, a beautiful and incredibly well behaved Malamute kept watch all night. 

Scary trail tree waiting to gobble up hikers. 

Trail crew and dog. 

Trail Gorilla. 

Sea of germs obscuring the trail in a burn area. 

Park Ranger looking to stay out of the limelight and also looking a bit worn out by the crowd. 

 

Hikingsolo

July 2 - Almost Mammoth

I must have worn Patrick out yesterday on our 3000 foot climb out of Lake Edison and VVR because he still hadn't stirred by 8:00, our planned departure. So I left on my way towards Red's Meadow and Mammoth. The walk was easy enough with some uphill and more downhill, but it was hot! After dropping out of the higher elevations I started seeing lakes. I was hoping to come close to one on the trail so I could take a dip. The first one of any size I came to was Virginia Lake where I re-met Holly. 

I noticed from a distance a hiker rolling up her pants and removing her shoes for a water crossing. The shoe removal was interesting only because most PCTers don't bother. As I approached the crossing I noticed she had moved to the shoreline of the lake; exactly what I was planning to do so I could cool off. About the time I made the water crossing she had removed her clothes and was jumping in the water. Of course I was observing this from a distance and she knew I was there. As I got out of the water crossing she was wrapping herself in a scarf-like thing that seemed familiar to me. I then called out to ask her name and low and behold it was Holly whom I had last seen wrapping her wet hair in the same scarf-like thing at Golden Oak Spring near Tehachapi. As we talked about that experience I prepared to take the plunge too. By the time I was out she was mostly dressed and we continued our conversation as I thanked her for paving the way into the refreshing lake water. We crossed paths again several times on the trail. She was headed into Red's Meadow while I stopped to camp a few miles away. It was good to see her again. 

The rest of the day was spent passing a stream of people coming from Yosemite Valley or Mammoth on their trek south toward Mt. Whitney. 

At the end of the day as I was finishing dinner Patrick limped into camp with a sore ankle. We are both hoping it's just muscle fatigue.  We also spent some time with other hikers talking about where we'll stay in Mammoth given the holiday crowd and the expected full occupancy of hotels, hostels, and campgrounds. Hmmmm?

Update on my falls: Ankles are doing great. Chest is still

Very painful. I'm sure I damaged some ribs. Ibuprofen makes it tolerable to carry the pack and to sleep. I'm hoping a day off in Mammoth will help it heal. 

A guy sitting in an inflatable couch 15 miles from anywhere. Too funny!

Hikingsolo

July 1 - VVR to Silver Pass

Mammoth is just about a day away. Unfortunately for my resupply it looks like I'll be there on the Fourth of July weekend and the post office won't be open until Tuesday I'm hoping there will be a bed or a couch at the hostel or space in the campground. Patrick is hiking with me and we have some of the same concerns. 

We left VVR on the ferry to the far end of Lake Edison after an outstanding breakfast. The ferry was a fourteen foot aluminum fishing boat taking the place of the big pontoon boat because it was broken down. VVR was running two boats at the same time to get as many as eight people to the far end as quickly as possible. 

After we debarked it was a climb of over three thousand feet to Silver Pass. Along the way Forest Ranger Greg checked our permits and gave us a lecture on proper camping site selection. By the time we were ready to move on a crowd had formed waiting for him to check and say they were good to go. Also along the way Patrick and I played leapfrog with PocketSand as she took breaks off trail and then passed us again later. We tried to be nice and say hello but she was having none of our hospitality. There are few like her who won't engage if only for a minute. Anyway, we thought she was extraordinarily good looking. ;-)

As we had a later start and no real incentive to hike fast we looked for a camping spot just after the pass. We joined three JMT hikers at a small lake where we had some good conversation. Patrick and I also took a dip in the lake to cool off and wash away some of the day's sweat. It was quite refreshing and not quite 'instant headache ' cold. 

Hikingsolo

June 30 - Lost In The Wilderness

Today I hiked past Sallie Keyes Lake, climbed through Seldon Pass, forded pocket-deep Bear Creek and two other raging creeks, and then got lost. It's a short story. 

Raven had been talking about how disappointed she was that she hadn't visited  the trail angels at Casa de Luna and how she wasn't going to miss Vermillion Valley Resort, aka VVR, and that I shouldn't miss it either. She said that PCT hikers are giver free camping and a beer or other drink of their liking just for showing up. Somewhere along the way I decided to do as she suggested and visit the resort. Of course, the prospect of a free beer never entered my thoughts. I was going to be too late to take the Ferry so I took a shortcut trail along Bear Ridge, the same one Raven was going to take. It was a great trail and should have had a trail junction a few miles down that cut over to the dam on Edison Lake where VVR is located. I flew down the trail and somehow missed the intersection. By the time I realized my mistake I was already miles south of where I needed to be and on a dirt road that didn't show on my maps. The road seemed to be going in the general direction I needed to go, but I was at least many miles from my destination and too far along and late I the day to turn around; not to mention worn out. A few miles of walking the road led me to a sign I was hoping to see that said Lake Edison was to the right. By that time I was out of water and there didn't seem to be any streams nearby. I followed a poorly paved road north a mile or so when a couple of guys in an ancient Excursion stopped and gave me advice and a cup of water then drove on. Within a few minutes a Forest Service truck came by and the nice guys gave me ice cold bottles of water and Gatorade as well as showed me a map. They thought I could probably hitch the rest of the way but if not it was only four or five miles (I was already pushing 22 miles and exhausted). Two minutes later I was picked up by a trail crew volunteer as he drove north toward my destination. I can't say how thankful I was for the ride. He also picked up three other hikers at the dam; Patrick, Poppins, and Fred. 

Dinner at VVR was extremely welcome and I'm now camped just outside the store where I hope to have breakfast in the morning. 

Seldon Pass. 

Selfie at the pass with Spice and Enda in the background. 

Hikingsolo

June 29 - Venom aka Raven Reappears

On my last night at Hiker Heaven in Agua Dulce a woman joined the party. Of course she was immediately taken with Justin and spent the night talking with him. Later she reappeared at Tehachapi the night before I left for Walker Pass with the Fullers. Her trail name then was Venom due to her fear of snakes. She reappeared tonight as I was about to fall asleep, but with a new name, Raven, as in Nevermore. I haven't had a chance to ask what it means but I'm sure I'll find out later. She talked my ear off for a while as she set up her cowboy camp right outside my tent. It was actually pretty nice to reconnect and catch up on trail news. 

In other news, I spent two hours drying out my stuff this morning after the rain of yesterday and last night. While others laid their stuff on rocks or in trees I strung a line and did the clothesline thing. 

Then I walked down the canyon, past Muir Ranch, and into the start of Seldon Pass. 

Evolution Basin Meadow. 

Evolution Creek high water. 

one of three bridges across Evolution Creek, but the first crossing was on foot and up to my pockets. Brrrrr. 

Dudes and Dudettes at Muir Ranch. I also saw a pack train lead by the local forest ranger in a top hat. Sorry no pic. 

Hikingsolo

June 28 - Muir Pass and Evolution Basin

The day started with a wicked climb of five miles to the top of Muir Pass. The South Branch of the Kings River originates in Muir Pass and fills the narrow canyon with a roar. Several times I crossed the river and its tributaries on the way up. In some areas it wasn't possible to do anything but walk in the freezing snow melt because the trail was under the runoff. On the way up I met Liftoff, a teacher and ski instructor from Vail, Colorado. She left me in her snow spray as I wasn't feeling all that well after yesterday's falls. Two miles from the top I walked across snow in the tracks of those who had gone before. At one point I could hear the rushing water under the snow and hoped that I wouldn't fall through. The hard work going up had me sweating but it was worth it. Muir must have been a real badass in his day to go here without maps or a trail. At the top of the pass is the Muir Hut, which is an awesome shelter. 

The way down took me across more snow but in a more gentle slope with no raging water. As I reached the first ice covered lake clouds were gathering for a classic Sierra thunderstorm. One hiker who passed me said that we were in for the full experience. She was right. About a mile later the lightning started and the sky opened up with rain and hail. Fortunately I was prepared and had my pack covered and my rain suit on. As lightning continued to crash all about on the peaks I passed the hiker. She wanted to make sure I was well down the trail since "lightning is attracted to groups of hikers," a fact I did not know. 

Unfortunately I don't have pictures of the awesomeness of Evolution Basin as I stowed my phone in a waterproof bag and it continued to rain all the way into camp. I cooked dinner in the tent vestibule to get out of the elements. It's still raining into the night. 

Reflections in an ivy lake up

Muir Pass. 

Dirty hiker sweating on snow. 

The trail was on snow more than rock. 

Muir Hut

Muir Hit inside. 

My Korean friends Jim and San (mountain).

Tent. Raining outside. 

Hikingsolo

June 27 - Falling Down

Granted the trail was down hill, but it wasn't on the down hill part that I took my spills. 

The first happened in a blow down area among burnt trees. Several smaller trees had fallen into a Bermuda Triangle arrangement with a small burned stub in the middle. As I negotiated the first tree a gremlin caught my foot and sent me headlong into the stub. I caught it in the upper right chest knocking my breath out and the reverberation threw me to the ground. Fortunately my chest only hurts when I breath, which I do a lot on uphill sections. No broken ribs. 

The second fall came a short while later on relatively clear ground but upon which a fallen tree had left a zillion broken branches. The gremlin caught my foot again and I landed with my trekking poles under me. The right pole has a slight bend to it now. 

The third spill came on as I was making a fast walk down a beautifully manicured trail. I stepped on a hidden rock and rolled my left ankle causing me to go down hard on my side with one arm trapped under me, hand still holding the trekking pole. I released my pack and assessed the damage. Just a small pain in the outside of the ankle as I twist it on uneven surfaces. Maybe it'll be better tomorrow. 

Other than the falls the day was pretty uneventful. Kings River in Kings Canyon, of course, is beautiful and roars as I hike next to it. Tonight I'm camped along the river with three sets of father and child, two girls and a boy. Nice people. They're on a 55 mile loop from North Lake to South Lake. Two more days and they'll visit Burger Barn on their way home. 

Kings River cascading down the canyon. 

Near my campsite. 

Sunset. 

Hikingsolo

June 26 - 23 Passes

Another PCT hiker mentioned today that there are 23 passes in the Sierra along the PCT. I'm a little amazed that the number is so low as I feel like I've already hit a good number of them. So it must be that they only count significant passes. In that case I've done four passes over 12,000 feet (Forester, Glen, Pinchot, and Mather) and two of those today. At this rate I'll be done with the Sierra in just three weeks. If anybody believes that will happen I'll gladly sell them some trout from the Santa Cruz. LOL. 

As hard a day as yesterday was today was spectacular. I felt great most of the way through two major passes. The last one, Mather, presented a significant challenge on the way down as snow covered most of the trail and some dangerous rock scrambling was required. It took me over two hours to make the two miles down to a place I could camp. By that time the sun was behind the peaks and it was turning cold. I ate dinner in my tent to avoid the end-of-day mosquitos. Besides, it was dark and I needed a light to see my food. This is the first time I've made camp so late that I had to cook after sunset. 

Looking back from Pinchot Pass. 

Flowers at 12,125 feet. 

Lichens provide great color too. 

Mather Pass snow on trail at the top. 

The view below Mather. 

Hikingsolo

June 25 - Uhg!!!!

Special Note: The Fullers should be back on the trail again at Kennedy Meadows! Yeah!!!

As good a day yesterday was, today was just the opposite. I was up early and after a good breakfast on the trail by 7:00. The first mile started easy but became broken and difficult the closer I came to the top of Glen Pass. Snow on the trail meant cutting across steep switchbacks to where the trail was clear. Footing was awful so the going was slow and treacherous. 

Once on top it was clear the descent wasn't going to be any better. I followed a couple who seemed to have it together until she glissaded down while he searched for the trail and walked some of it to the same point she had arrived at earlier. I decided to follow her example, and except for an out-of-control moment that ended in a snow bank it was fun! The rest of the descent to snow free territory was a slip and slide session both on rocks and snow. If any of us made a single mile per hour it would surprise me. 

During the whole ordeal I worried a bit about Sugar, the 67 year old Japanese man I camped with yesterday. At the end of today I hadn't seen him since early morning, but some nice Koreans, Jim and San, said he was going slow a few miles back. (Just as I finished this Sugar walked into camp at almost 8:00)

Everyone I talked to in camp tonight had the same story. Spice and Joe from New Jersey were the couple I shadowed and they couldn't believe how slow it was. A Canadian was almost too exhausted to speak. The German, Fukit, arrived with a damaged ankle  from where his trekking pole stabbed him when he slipped. Even the Koreans said they were exhausted. 

Tonight we are all 4.5 miles shy of another pass, Pinchot. At 12,125 feet it will be another long uphill climb to start the day. I'm hoping I'll have the same energy I had two days ago. 

Glissading tracks in the snow. 

Granite dome. 

Beautiful lakes!

Waiting to cross the suspension bridge. This was a little disconcerting as the bridge bounced as you walked. 

At least John Muir had a horse available. 

Hikingsolo