June 19 - Whitney

On top of Mt. Whitney, all covered with snow,

There was this old teacher, too worn out to know.

Better. 

The hike up was one that took my breath away, literally. I was about to turn around at 12,787 feet. My chest hurt, my back hurt, and it seemed like I took a break every few hundred feet. A few hikers coming back from moonlight summits said to just keep on going, one step at a time. Of course they were going downhill. Easy for them to say. I started at 7:00 and finished summiting around 1:00. Downhill was marginally faster but I took care with my finicky ankle. Dinner was ready around 7:00. That made for a long and arduous day. Here are a few pictures. 

Hikingsolo

When I'm home and getting up early to climb Tummamoc Hill I skip breakfast until later. That's what I did today. I hit the trail at 7:00, before most other hikers were up. They caught up to me though as the first six miles were uphill and I wasn't in my best shape. The first to catch up was Enda from Oregon. I think of her as Snow White because that is the color of her hair. Later came Pitter Patter and Town Food. Then I played leapfrog with the hordes. 

Several groups were going out at Horseshoe Mesdows for resupply in Lone Pine. A few are doing like me, keep on trucking to Whitney and then resupply in Independence. The next two days will tell me if I can make it up Whitney. Last night I had a terrible headache due to the abrupt change in altitude. I'm hoping that a couple of days in the 11000 foot range will help me get acclimated. I should have enough food to last an extra day but if I don't get a ride quickly to Independence I could be hungry for a bit. 

Pictures: selfies, camp, and hikers hanging out trying to get a cell connection (they never did).

Hikingsolo

June 15 - Back on the Trail Again

Betsy sent me off with one final geocaching adventure down the PCT outside of Kennedy Meadows, a kiss, and an admonishment to take it easy and be careful. My intention was to take it very easy, which I partially succeeded in doing, with only a minor ankle roll in the first quarter mile and another in the last mile before I stopped for the day. 11.5 miles in all. And my legs and feet felt every inch of it!  Five weeks off the trail hurt! Tomorrow will be better I am certain. 

Today I met the backside of the herd and several characters that accompany it. Legend and Raven were in the campground after a short reconnaissance of the trail looking to do Trail Magic. Dirty Sink and her boy Forward were at the store just hanging out while resupplying. Honey, PushPop, Tindy, and too many others to remember were on the trail. Camping was a challenge to find a place away from the music and carousing but I was persistent and found a spot. Later I visited the other camps to just say hello. Nice group! 

Here are a few pictures. 

Obligatory selfie at the start. 

Trail Crew. All volunteers. Thank you!

My camp. 

The hordes. 

PitterPatter on the bridge across the south fork of the gently flowing Kern River. 

The river at sunset. 

Hikingsolo

June 16 - An Uneventful Day

About half of the camp had left by the time I hit the trail at 8:00. It turned out that by the end of the day every one of them along with a few others arrived at the same camping area I chose weeks ago. 

I played leapfrog with several hikers as we took breaks at different times. The only one I didn't leap was PitterPat. She passed me as if on a mission. Tonight in camp I wondered how she looked so clean and fresh. I suppose it was because she had arrived hours earlier and had time to rest and freshen up. 

Many hikers are resupplying at Lone Pine in a couple of days. That should break up this bubble. Others are doing as I will, resupply at Independence after trying to go up Whitney. I checked my itinerary and I'm not sure I'll make it up Whitney. Somehow I scheduled a 24 mile day. I don't think that will happen considering how my feet and legs feel after weeks off the trail. Time will tell. 

Sorry, only one picture. I wonder what this plant is? It sure stood out!

Hikingsolo

June 18 - In the Shadow of Whitney

Today was one of the hardest hikes I've done on the PCT, or anywhere for that matter. I stopped last night at mile 747, Poison Meadow Spring, two miles further than I anticipated. That made today's hike two miles shorter, 20 instead of 22 miles. There were several elevation changes totaling 4500 feet and topping out at just over 11,000 feet. Needless to say I'm exhausted! I left at 7:00 this morning and got into camp at 6:30 this evening. After filtering water, setting up the tent and sleeping arrangement, cooking dinner, and then eating I'm definitely ready for bed. 

The camp area is at Upper Crabtree Meadows, just 7.5 miles from the top of Mt. Whitney. I'll join a large loose knit group on the way up tomorrow. In the morning there won't be much sun as I'm camped in the shadow of Whitney at 10,500 feet and I expect the night to be cold! If all goes well I'll get up and back before dark. I'm not planning on taking much, just lunch and water, so the trip should be easier on my body. 

Today I met Dangerous Dave, Gilbert (who was on a train to LA with SnapChat), and Night Rider. Nice people. 

Pictures: Chicken Spring Lake, the first one in the Sierra along the PCT. 

Elevation, but not the highest today. I think that was over 11,600.

Looking towards Whitney. 

The trail is all about the same with magnificent trees and lots of granite, decomposed and solid. 

Hikingsolo

June 5 to 14 - Lullaby

My visit with Jake at Agility physical therapy seemed to confirm a multiple sprain affecting the connection between two ligaments in my right foot. One crosses over the top of the foot from the big toe to the heel and the other runs from the knob on the outside of the foot up behind the ankle bone towards the knee. Where they cross is connecting tissue that may have separated causing the pop I heard. Over the last week swelling and pain have subsided, but soreness persists. Tomorrow I start back on the trail where I left off at Kennedy Meadows. I'm hoping that the foot will hold up to the rigors.  Recent walking has been fine, but a small twist could be a problem.  I'm planning on going slowly the first few days to be safe. I have about three days to get up to 10,500 feet from 7200, so that should be doable. Next comes Whitney, which I plan to make a day hike. I expect that I won't have any phone reception for most of the next 8 days so this could be the last you'll hear from me until I come down to Independence for resupply. 

Over the last week I took it easy until Betsy and I met up with friends in Flagstaff for a little geocaching adventure. We drove and walked the hills southwest of Flag to acquire the Saturn Revisited series. I walked a number of the cache sites which turned out to be good for my foot and my confidence on rough terrain. After a full day in flag we trekked to Page with geocache stops along the way. The prize we reached on Monday at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. I've always wanted to visit but never had the time. Betsy and I walked out to view Bright Angel trail from the area around the Visitors Center.  Betsy was a little afraid of the drop offs, but I held her hand! Later we drove back roads to a Marble Canyon overlook where we retrieved another cache and spotted a forest fire deep in the canyon. That night was spent in St. George, Utah, just a hop skip and jump from Warren Jeffs' playground at Colorado City. Tonight we are back in Ridgecrest, at the foot of the Sierra. I've checked my gear and found a couple of things that need attention. Betsy will send me off again in the morning and return to Tucson to take care of Nanna and Sammy. I've had a restful good time waiting for the snow to melt, but now it's time to get on the trail again. October and snow is just around the corner. 

The old Schoolhouse cache in Strawberry. 

KennyV climbing down after completing Saturn. 

Navajo Bridge near Lee's Ferry. 

It's not really a drop off to your left!

Looking down at the North Rim. 

Earth Cache. 

Gear. 

Hikingsolo

June 5 - Improvement

The foot continues to improve. No call from the radiologist may be great news. I'm keeping my physical therapy appointment on Tuesday to talk with a sports expert about how to best proceed. My hope is that all will be good by the 15th. Wishful thinking?

Hikingsolo

June 3 - Disaster Strikes

Suffice to say that after two months and 702 miles of trails, along with several rolled ankles and a couple of falls, I wasn't prepared for stepping on medium sized igneous rock in Show Low.

While throwing tree trimmings into a trailer I stepped directly on a rock with the mid-sole of my foot and heard a pop! That was followed immediately with pain that stopped me in my tracks for a few seconds. I continued to walk, albeit gingerly, and completed several chores before I took a break. The next thing I did sealed the deal - I attempted to put the awning out on the trailer using a footstool to get up high enough to grab the strap. I stepped on the edge of the stool and rolled off onto the side of my injured foot. No popping, but damn did that hurt!!!

Research into foot injuries told me that it wasn't likely broken, but it still hurt and was turning colors. When Betsy got back I iced it and took an aspirin. Later in the evening we talked about having it checked out in the morning as it wasn't feeling any better.

The doctor says that it's likely a sprain. He sees no broken bones, but he's sending the X-Rays to a radiologist who should call later today. Then he gave me a shot to reduce the swelling. If there is a stress fracture it won't show up on the X-Rays for several days, so if by Tuesday it's not feeling better I'll have to have it X-Rayed again! Of course I have a PT appointment on Tuesday to look into that foot - I guess I'll have to cancel.

My bigger worry is that I won't be able to get back on the trail on June 15th. That will delay my return even longer! I guess I should be thankful that I'm not wearing a cast, but, gosh darn, what a horrible way to get off trail.

May 25 to June 2 - Life in Tucson

Life in Tucson is just about as normal as it can get. Up 750 feet and 3 miles round trip on Tumamoc Hill in the early morning followed by a four or five mile walk home. Later some shopping and planning for the hike to come. Visits with family in between. Trying to keep my diet in check.

I'm anxious to get back on the trail, but that's not happening anytime soon. On June 11 and 12 I'll travel with Betsy to Flagstaff and from there back to Kennedy Meadows where I'll pick up again. I'm excited to see that Hatchet/Danger and Snapchat have made it safely to places in the Sierra despite the snow and ice.

I made an appointment with Jake at Agility Sports and Spine Physical Therapy to look at a problem I developed in my right foot while going up the hills in Berkeley. I think I stressed something a bit. Not broken, but not feeling all that good either. Next Tuesday I should have some idea of how to treat it.

The Memorial Day weekend sale at REI left me minus lots of money as I bought supplies for the trip along with a long sleeved wool layer. I've been wearing a synthetic layer that does a good job of keeping me warm,  but it stinks fairly quickly. My wool shirts don't stink, even after five days of sweating, so wool it is!

This week we'll be headed up to Show Low for a little escape from the Tucson heat. I plan to continue walking at the 6800 foot elevation so I'll stay in shape for a return to Kennedy Meadows.

May 24 - Back to Bridgeport for a Night

On the morning of May 24th Betsy and I headed out again for Bridgeport on our way back to Tucson. Rest assured that I'm not returning to Tucson for the summer - I'm planning on being back on the trail as soon as June 15th. By that time the snow will have melted and the high passes, Forrester and Kearsarge, should be passable.

We stopped over night at the cabin to pick up some things we left behind, like crampons and snow pants! When we arrived late in the day we took a little walk around the area and discovered neighbors Holly and Doug were at home. Plans were quickly made for a post dinner happy hour. Later on we met their friends and swapped stories.

In the morning we were back on the road, headed for Tucson by way of the northern reaches of Death Valley. Betsy had a few caches she needed in some remote areas of California and Nevada, so we took the less traveled road to get them. That road included the Bristle Cone Pines National Forest where we met a ranger who proudly told us of the role the University of Arizona played in dating the trees. Who knew? Actually, we told him that a friend was one of the UA Tree Ring lab researchers and he had helped us to core and date a tree in front of the cabin. Its such a small world!

Later that day we pulled into Beatty Nevada for a stay at the Motel 6. They left the lights on for us.

May 22 and 23 - Sausalito to Berkeley

Breck returned home from Iran on Sunday  full of tales from the art world. Betsy and I had cleaned house so the only thing out of place was us and our cat Sissy Sue. My sister Sherri arrived early to prepare for Breck's return with pizza in hand. Later she decided caviar was in order for Breck's birthday. 

After presents and wine we headed for Berkeley. We'll be staying for several days with Sherri and sister Tonya who is arriving on Tuesday evening.  

Monday morning I walked the hills of Berkeley with my backpack. As Betsy says, I need to keep in shape. The streets are cut through with 'Indian Trails,' - walkways often with steps that allow uphill foot traffic to take shortcuts up hill rather than to follow the contours along the roads. They make for a good workout. Half an hour or so uphill followed by the same downhill gets the sweat started, even in mid-fifties temperatures. 

On my return I did a little yard work while Betsy and Sherri walked the dog. Then we met for a scrumptious Mexican lunch. 

Later we did a little much needed walking to work off lunch and to get a few geocaches. Maybe I'll stay in shape!

There is a Golden Gate out there somewhere !

It's hard to tell but the Indian Trails are very steep for the most part.

Hikingsolo

May 5 thru May 21

With the help of Justin all of the wood from the huge white pine that was felled last year in front of the cabin has been split into mostly manageable chunks. Mostly manageable because some were so dense and knotty that three wedges wouldn't split them. We burned about half of the pile trying to keep warm between snow storms. 

Out of real food (We are not counting freeze dried hiker food!) and trying to avoid the high prices and limited selection at the upper lake store we rode bikes into town to get groceries. The downhill slope was fast and fun but the ride back was definitely a workout. Justin actually walked the bike a few times while I rode in circles to stay close. I'm not sure if the burger from Rhino's Bar or the beer slowed him down, but I was welcoming the slower pace. 

 

Betsy arrived on Monday May 9th and hung out for the afternoon and evening. By that time the snow was gone and the temperatures had warmed up. In the morning we headed toward Sausalito via Reno and Sierra City. The drive up Donner Pass was snow free with just patches up around 8000 feet. As we headed north to Sierra City the signs of spring were prominent throughout the landscape with flowers starting to show. We stopped briefly at Yuba Pass, around 7200 feet where snow drifts still littered the slopes. 

In Sierra City there was no evidence of winter, except that the tourists had not yet returned. 

It looked like our return to the trail would happen there after a brief visit to the Bay Area. However, once settled in Sausalito things changed pretty rapidly. 

Justin and I had a nice walk across the Golden Gate Bridge on our first day in the area followed by several days of meeting our relatives and geocaching with Betsy in Sausalito, on Angel Island, on Mount Tamalpias, and elsewhere. Justin is uncommonly good at finding geocaches, so much so that Betsy really enjoyed beating him to one! 

We also had brunch, a walk through Berkeley's Botanical Gardens, and dinner with Betsy's brother Michael and sister-in-law Cindy. And we got together with my sister Sherri to help with her garden and to enjoy a nice dinner. 

Not surprisingly, all of the walking, biking, and hiking wore the boy out. It also gave him a chance to think about what he really wanted to do next, which turned out to be help his parents move and return to his life as a video game expert. On Wednesday, May 18 Justin flew out, headed for Houston. Good luck, buddy! It was great hiking with you. 

Snow reports from around the Sierra and via the Fullers also helped me to decide to return to Tucson briefly with Betsy until mid-June. Two reports from Deb sum it up: 

"Some hikers are beginning to flip north to avoid the snow in the Sierras.  Not particularly a good idea at this point.   Here's a post from PCT Section hikers describing the current UNSAFE conditions of Section M, Sierra City to Belden.

Catherine Barash
9 hrs · Fort Jones
California Section M report from today. PCT Trail Update - Section "M" (initial 7 mile) observations during training hike from Hwy 49 to the summit. **UNSAFE!!**

The initial switchback section is great, including across the middle to the post piles. However, beyond that gets dicey. Initially, you will find overgrowth within the rocks past the post pile, making a couple areas tricky as it is difficult to see where the outer edge is trail, a bush, or air. That is the minor issue.
The greater problem is the handful of rock slides (shale) that have blown out the trail on the upper switchbacks (Southwest facing). The first one I encountered was just a few feet of damage, and clearing was relatively easy to find foot holds. The others were worse, where the trail was effectively replaced (blown out) by the slide. One I cleared a bit, the other I had to create a few foot holds, wedge the trekking pole and jump! Any slip and it is 1,000 to 1,500 feet before you hit anything as you slide down to probably your final hiking memory!!
My plan was to hike up beyond Deer Lake and back. Unfortunately, when I reached the summit, I also met up with the 3-5' of snow that the Sierras supposedly did not get. About 200 yards up the trail past the summit and the trail disappears under deep snow --- GPS-only travel. At about 250 yards in I stabbed the aluminum trekking pole in about 2', hitting solid, taking a step forward my leg disappeared, wedging against what appeared to be a fallen tree. The pole slipped off, sending it deeper, and to save what felt like a possible broken leg I put all my strength against the pole, bending it dramatically, but saving my leg. Here I decided to turn around.
I camped at the summit last..."

And the second one.... Report from Enduro who tried to make it through Lassen National Park: 

"Tried to hike n from drakes[bad]. Too much snow after kings crk. Heading back to drakes. Will try to jump to OS or Burney. ..... I'm heading back to drakes now. Brutal hiking. .....Lots of postholing and snow bridges. Everywhere. ARGHHHHHH! PCT wins the day!! Enduro"

The Fullers return June 25 to Kennedy Meadows. I may be a few days earlier, but I plan to meet up on the trail. In the meantime I'm trying to keep in shape walking the hills of Sausalito. After we leave our housesitting gig I'll walk the hills of Berkeley and then Tucson. 

Today is May 21st. Yesterday we enjoyed a drive up Highway 1 to the Point Reyes area where we had lunch at Nick's Cove and then revisited some geocaches in hopes of finding Betsy's lost glasses. While lunch was awesome we had no luck finding the glasses. 

This morning it's cold. 54 in Sausalito. 37 in Sierra City. Glad I'm not there. Tomorrow we head for my sister Sherri's place for a few days while we await sister Tonya's arrival. Then we'll head back to Tucson for dental appointments and such. 

I'll plan to keep up the blog more regularly now that plans are pretty well settled. 

One of our housesitting companions: Queen Latifa. 

Hikingsolo

May 3 - Haircut and Chores

Cabin neighbor Holly was headed to town today so I caught a ride with her to look for Justin at the bus stop and to get my hair cut. 

A fellow with long hair and a baseball cap got off the bus just before we arrived so I went around town checking to see if it was Justin. Holly helped by driving around the back roads while I walked the area. After covering most of the postage stamp sized downtown we had no luck finding the person with the ball cap, when I realized I should have asked people if they had seen someone with a big backpack get off the bus. Duh! I came to the conclusion that it wasn't Justin so I went on to my haircut appointment. 

With short hair and nothing much to do I spent the rest of the day chopping wood. I made it through about a third of the logs left behind last year from the dead tree out front before my hands quit working. 

Holly again invited me for dinner so I had a relaxing night talking with Doug and Holly as we shared stories again. Good times!

Betsy will be up on Monday with the Fullers. Hopefully Justin will make it here on Thursday. 

May 2 - Bus to Bridgeport

Starting just 20 miles from Kennedy Meadows the High Sierra is covered in snow. None of the regular roads into the backcountry are open at this time making resupply difficult or impossible. Horseshoe Meadow, Reds Meadow, Tuolumne Meadows, Tioga Pass, Sonora Pass, and Monitor Pass are all closed. The Fullers and I have decided to skip forward north to at least Sierra City where the trail is lower and hopefully snow free. Later we'll come back to Kennedy Meadows to complete the John Muir Trail section of the PCT and north to Sierra City. 

So, on Monday I caught the 6:15 Eastern Sierra Regional bus to Bridgeport where I'll stay at the family cabin for a couple of weeks until Justin and the Fullers can meet me. I arrived in Bridgeport promptly at 9:20 and walked to the post office where I picked up a package with some additional clothing and paper maps for the rest of the trip. Next it was out to the Twin Lakes Road to try to get a ride to the Lakes. 

After about twenty minutes Eddie stopped his vintage International Harvester jeep to give me a ride. Thanks Eddie! The IH struggled up the incline and overheated a couple of times so we stopped at Doc and Al's turnoff to let it cool off and again along the lake front road. I enjoyed the ride and the chance to look around. 

The cabin was closed for the winter but after just a little work I was able to get the water on, the windows open, and the electricity working. Next I walked to the store at the upper lake for provisions. They were surprised to see that my grocery bag was a backpack! A quick walk back and I was all set to start a fire and enjoy the rest of the day. 

Later that afternoon I heard some noise next door and went over to find Holly and Doug at home. We swapped stories and they fed me a scrumptious dinner! It was great to see I wasn't alone on the hill. 

May 1 - Lone Pine Alabama Hills

Mount Whitney was sometimes visible from the Windows of the Whitney Portal Hostel as the clouds formed and then dissipated. My thoughts were with Patrick and Crockman as they will be in the shadows of the mountain in a day or so. Snow was falling at higher elevations and may continue for several days making trail finding and foot travel difficult.  I am happy not to be there. 

Justin met me for a big breakfast at the Alabama Hills Cafe where we formed a plan for the upcoming days. He'll be coming north to the cabin in Bridgeport while we wait for the Fullers to return to the trail. 

Today we planned on walking through the Alabama Hills just outside of town.  It was years ago that my sister Sherri and partner Bill introduced us to Lone Pine, Whitney Portal, and the Alabama Hills after a chance encounter on the streets of the town. Betsy and I fondly remember that meeting and our surprise at seeing them pass by our window as we ate lunch. 

Justin and I road walked out to the hills and then wandered in and out of the rocks. Justin was into climbing to the higher reaches and I was into saying, "I don't want to pick up your bloody body after you fall." Fortunately he didn't fall. Of course I didn't fall either as I just don't take such risks these days. It hurts too much! 

Later I needed a nap. Rock climbing is hard work!

After a quick dinner at Subway we met for a couple of beers at Jake's Saloon, a local hangout. Betsy called after a few texts and got an earful of the raucous goings on in the bar. LOL. I learned that she might have a little company in Sausalito if the Fullers are willing. Then she'll drive them to the cabin. I'm glad to hear they'll hook up!

April 30 - Kennedy Meadows: Decisions, Decisions

Got up late with the Fullers; didn't want to get into the Kennedy Meadows Store too early after three days of hard walking.  The Fullers were looking for a ride to Ridgecrest to arrange for a rental car to deal with family business. I was still undecided about whether to continue on to Sage Flat where I was likely to exit the trail instead of going up Forrester Pass in the snow or to get a ride down the hill and hitchhike to Bridgeport and wait for the Fullers to come back on trail. 

At the KM Store I met up again with Patrick and Crocman as they were gearing up for an assault on Forrester and Kearsarge passes. Equipped with bigger packs, ice axes, snow spikes, thermal insulating sleeping pads, snow pants, heavy jackets, a real GPS, eight days of food, and perhaps most importantly, knowledge of ice climbing, they were ready to go. They left behind snow shoes and crampons. 

Lacking the knowledge and experience in snow, I opted to consider the Sage Flat route. After talking with the store guru, Scott, and looking at maps I decided the 20 mile hike followed by a 25 mile road walk wasn't worth the effort, especially since I would have to return to KM later to complete the Sierra section. 

The Fullers had already left so I told a few people that I was looking for a ride down 395 towards Bridgeport. Ten minutes later Hank and Cindy offered me a ride! They then bought beers and hamburgers for us all and we talked a bit about the trail. Hank was scoping out the area in preparation for a hike along the John Muir Trail. While I was finalizing sending some packages on to Bridgeport James came in. He was just behind us on the trail and was also looking for a ride to town. Hank and Cindy, wonderful Trail Angels, also took James into Ridgecrest where he could stay the night and pick up a resupply box on Monday. We rode in the backseat of their truck with Roxy, their cute 6 year old boxer. 

Along the way north toward Independence, where Hank and Cindy were staying, we discussed options for dinner and places to stay. I had decided a campground near a bus stop would be best but it was starting to rain. As we pulled into Lone Pine to stop for a slice and some beer at the Pizza Factory Hank noticed the Whitney Portal Hostel across the street. I checked it out and immediately booked two nights for a total of $56! What a deal! Also across the street was a laundry! Even better. 

Thanks Hank and Cindy. You're wonderful! I hope to see you again.  

Later, while doing laundry, I had a text from Justin who was staying just down the street. We got together to have a burger and some beer and discussed plans. Justin will be visiting me in Bridgeport as we wait for the Fullers. Then we'll probably head for Sierra City to get back on the trail and head north. In August we'll head back to KM to complete the Sierra. 

Hikingsolo